Tales of the Cocktail on Tour Vancouver is right around the corner, taking place February 12-15.  At this second annual installment of the satellite event of New Orleans’ own Tales of the Cocktail, tequila and mezcal will figure prominently.  Charlotte Voisey, Iván Saldaña, and your very own agave correspondent will be presenting an entertaining and educating seminar entitled Tequila Evolved on Tuesday February 14.

Tequila Evolved: How Tequila Evolved, How Tequila Cocktails have Evolved and How Tequila will Continue to Evolve

Agave genius Iván Saldaña Oyarzábal is flying in from Mexico to join Charlotte Voisey and Eric Lorenz for an invigorating discussion on the past, the cocktails and the future of tequila.

^ The traditional way of extracting juice from the Agave as seen here at Fidencio Mezcal’s distillery

Ever wondered if the Mesoamericans discovered, fermented and even distilled agave beverages before the Spanish arrived in 1519?  If so, how long ago? And how has fermentation been intricately interwoven with the rise of civilization itself?  These questions will be explored in fascinating dialogue with Eric Lorenz citing provocative new research by archaeologists from the University of British Columbia.

Charlotte will be on hand for cocktail relief with silver, reposado and añejo tequilas.

^ Early distillation in Mexico: Spanish colonial-era copper alembic still in the foreground, early clay pot still used by indigenous Zapotec peoples at present (distillate from this type of still is known as "mezcal de olla") at left. Credit: Eric Lorenz.

For anyone who attended Tales of the Cocktail in New Orleans this past summer and who saw and heard Iván speak at the Before Man, the Plant seminar, you’ll recall that his knowledge of agave botany and plant physiology is unmatched.  Charlotte’s strengths (two of many actually…) are in telling the (his)story of a classic cocktail while tantalizing the tastebuds – she’ll be doing that with the margarita and more – thanks to Milagro Tequila.  And your correspondent?  Well, if you read any of my Ancient Origins of Agave Spirits series over at Examiner.com, you’ll have some idea where (and when) we’ll be going.  But you’ll have to turn up in person to hear about our new and future research – in which we’ll literally dig up the smoking guns showing early origins of agave beverage fermentation and ritual use of these beverages and analyze them using state-of-the-art molecular biology techniques.

^ Charlotte Voisey

What if I didn’t sign up in time and the Tequila Evolved seminar is full, you ask?  Well, you can still come on out to the BC Bar Crawl any time between February 12-15 and enjoy agave spirits featured at these fine establishments:

• Boneta
  12 Water Street Courtyard
  “Callejón de la Sangre” with Scorpion Mezcal created by Ben De Champlain

• The Keefer Bar
  135 Keefer Street
  “Ma Mong O” with Don Julio Tequila created by Danielle Tatarin

• West Restaurant
  2881 Granville Street
  “Geishagave” with T1 Tequila Uno created by David Wolowidnyk

And your correspondent has also learned, by leaving no stone unturned and through plenty of late-night “research” of course, that imbibers may also get a taste of mezcal if they head over to Blue Water Café or Revel Room for their cocktails featuring Cointreau and Licor 43, respectively.  But you didn’t hear that from me.

Finally, master distillers German Gonzalez of T1 Tequila Uno and Douglas French of Scorpion Mezcal are threatening that they may even be on hand for the week.  Either way, cocktail lovers and agave lovers alike will have plenty to rejoice about at Tales of the Cocktail Vancouver.

Not enough for you because you’re such an extreme agave enthusiast, you say?  Well, you’re in luck – you can enroll in the first-time-in-Canada Mezcalier Level 1 course taking place on February 16 at Latitude on Main.  This is the one and only Mexican government-certified course that you can take to be able to call yourself a “mezcalier” – and it’s only the beginning (1 of 4).  See www.mezcalier.com for costs and details.  Of course, the most important detail is that you’ll be tasting at least 20 mezcals you’ve never tasted before.

And speaking of mezcal – did I mention that British Columbia’s mezcal selection just increased by about 900%?  More on that later.

~ Eric Lorenz

From 1903 through to 1926, Ada Coleman, or as her regulars called her, “Coley”, worked the bar at the Savoy Hotel’s American Bar in London. She was a very talented bartender who proceeded the great, Harry Craddock, who in 1924 would come over the pond from America to manage the Savoy. Six years later he would publish the Savoy cocktail book, where the first recipe for the Hanky Panky was found.

Ada had regulars such as Charlie Chaplin, WC Fields, and Mark Twain. One particular regular, Charles Hawtrey, an English actor preferred a drink, “with a bit of punch to it.” One evening Ada came up with a new recipe involving London dry gin, Sweet Vermouth, and Fernet Branca. Upon tasting it Mr. Hawtrey said, “By Jove! That is the real hanky panky!” It has been called the, Hanky Panky ever since.

The great thing about the Hanky Panky cocktail is that a drink with only three ingredients is so delicious. The secret is nailing the dilution and the temperature. I like to use Beefeater as the gin component because the heavier juniper presence really stands up well to the complexity of the Fernet Branca. I use Cinzano Rosso for the vermouth. I find certain other vermouths like Carpano Antica formula a little too complex for this cocktail. Finally, the orange twist also helps pull everything together by delivering an elegant citrus nose. As you taste, the spice notes from the gin will be first, then the fruit from the vermouth, finished with the lovely bitter characteristics of the Fernet Branca.

Here’s the recipe:

• 45 ml Beefeater gin

• 45 ml Cinzano Rosso vermouth

• 10 ml Fernet Branca

- Add all ingredients to a chilled mixing glass.
- Add ice and stir for 20-30 seconds.
- Strain into a chilled cocktail glass.
- Squeeze an orange peel over the cocktail and drop in the glass. Enjoy.

My favorite pre-dinner cocktail, but really can be enjoyed anytime!

~ Shaun Layton

June 15, 2011 is the 90th Anniversary of the repeal of prohibition in BC and the establishment of government control of the sale of liquor within the province. The BC prohibition commenced on October 1, 1917. It was soon judged a failure, resulting in law-abiding citizens becoming criminals for simply wanting to have a drink with their dinner. Following a referendum, prohibition was repealed on June 15, 1921. On the same date, a “government control” system was implemented for the sale of liquor within the province.

This press release was sent to us today by Julia Watt of Gala Events and Marketing and Mark Hicken of the Vintage Law Group.

It is the 90th anniversary and the government monopoly Liquor Distribution Branch (LDB) still controls and sells all liquor within BC at the wholesale level and still sells a vast amount through its government retail stores which have extremely high operating costs. The LDB is a $3 billion per year business in B.C. It generates about $900 million per year for the government but costs about $300 million per year to operate.

The following are some of the legacies of prohibition which make BC look ridiculous when compared to the rest of the world:

•  Today, all liquor sold within BC must be registered and listed with the government. All imports of liquor must be approved by and processed through the government wholesaler. Yet, we don’t do this for cigarettes or guns.

•  Today in BC, and unlike most of the rest of the world, it is still illegal to consume alcohol in a public place such as a park. BC citizens cannot legally enjoy a glass of wine while enjoying a picnic.

•  It is still illegal to carry liquor across provincial borders (a criminal offence with possible imprisonment). In Europe, you can ship alcohol between countries without a problem. While Canadians cannot legally return from a vacation in another province with any alcohol, they can bring back 2 bottles per person after a trip to another country.

•  We have excessively high taxes on liquor which result in prices being about double what they should be. For example, Chateau Ste. Michelle Riesling, a Washington state wine, is commonly available for $6 south of the border. It is $15.99 in BC because the standard LDB markup on wine is 123% plus 12% HST on top of that for a grand total of 135% tax.

•  Wine is good for you when used in moderation as intended. No amount of soda pop is good for you but that is taxed at only 12%.

•  We have arcane regulation of restaurants and private retailers such that these independent businesses are not permitted to do things which are otherwise commonplace. For example, they cannot store liquor off-site. They cannot transfer liquor between locations of the same restaurant or retail chain (even if the LDB is out of stock). They must buy nearly all their liquor from the government, usually from a single designated government store. If they order anything other than mainstream products, they are forced to order in full case lots via a slow and inefficient delivery system. As a result, restaurants frequently run out of products or encounter storage and financial issues due to the requirement to order in such large quantities.

•  Restaurants and bars are denied wholesale prices entirely. Private retailers are given wholesale prices which are fixed artificially high by their chief competitor (the government stores). As a result, there is virtually no competition in the retail liquor business and consumers are denied the sales and good deals that are common in other countries.

•  It is illegal for a private person to sell a bottle of liquor to another private person. Auctions are also illegal (unless done for charity).

•  Citizens cannot take their own wine into a restaurant and have the restaurant charge them a corkage fee (even if the wine was purchased from a government store). This is illegal – it’s considered to be “illicit liquor”.

Happy Anniversary LDB, but don’t expect the rest of British Columbia to be joining you to celebrate the 90th birthday of the establishment of government control over the sale of liquor within the province.

For more information about wine and liquor laws in BC and Canada, visit www.winelaw.ca.

I have been playing a game with restaurant bartenders across town, where I show up with a mystery bottle and ask them to review it blind. By not knowing what the product is or who represents it, hopefully, an honest-no-bs-review is achieved.

Come inside and read the review of our next contestant…

ABV: 43%
Category: Cognac
Country: France

Appearance: ~ 3 “Light, goldden brown, clean.”
Nose:  ~ 2.5 ” Bright citrus (orange, lemon) toasted oak, light vanilla.”
Finish: ~ 4 “Mid-length on the finish, good acidity (mouth watering) – lingering oaky finish. Slightly smokey.”
Value: ~ 3

Further notes: “Strong cognac with robust flavours.”

Total Score: 16/25

Availability: Limited availability at select BC Liquor stores.
Pricing: $75.99

Cocktail recipe: The Blackened Cherry

• 5 or 6 guinette cherries muddled

• 1.5 ounce of Hennessy Black

• 0.5 ounce of St. Germain

• 0.5 ounce of Aperol liquer

• 0.5 ounce of lemon/orange juice

• dash of bitters

Serve in a chilled cocktail glass and garnish with a lemon twist

Disclosure: http://CMP.LY/2/So5gPQ – product sample from distributor

Local bourbon aficionados will be pleased to know that Canada is now on Wild Turkey’s radar since Gruppo Campari bought the brand from Pernod Ricard last year, after nearly three decades in the latter’s portfolio. Associate Distiller, Eddie Russell, was recently in Vancouver and Calgary to spread the good news and showcase five of Wild Turkey’s bourbons to industry and media.

Currently, 50% of Wild Turkey sales are outside of the United States, of which Australia and Japan are the leading markets. Although Wild Turkey 101 Bourbon accounts for 75% of total world sales, Wild Turkey cola and dry ginger ale pre-mixes are the distillery’s leading products Down Under and only available there.

In BC, the BCLDB offers Wild Turkey 80 and Rare Breed, a barrel proof blend of 6-, 8-, and 12-year-old bourbons. Russell’s Reserve, a small batch 10-year-old 90 proof named after Master Distiller Jimmy Russell, is a new speculative listing. While still under the Pernod Ricard umbrella, the distillery tried to offer their Wild Turkey American Honey bourbon-based liqueur to the Canadian market, but encountered trouble gaining LCBO approval.

With the resurgent interest in brown spirits, it may only be a matter of time that we will also see Wild Turkey 101 and Kentucky Spirit available on local shelves.

Bourbon whiskey is a distinctive product of the United States with greater legal requirements on what defines the spirit than Scotch whisky. Only whiskey produced in the US can be called “bourbon.” American federal guidelines require bourbon to:

• be made from a grain mixture that is at least 51% corn
• not be distilled above 160 proof
• be without added flavouring or colouring
• be aged in new, charred oak barrels
• not be barreled at more than 125 proof
• not be bottled at less than 80 proof

Bourbon that has been aged for two years and meets the above requirements can be called Straight Bourbon. Bourbon aged for less than four years must state the duration of its aging on the bottle. If an age is stated, it must be of the youngest whiskey in the bottle.

^ Mint Julep, Pourhouse

The 54 Julep
2 1/2 ounces Wild Turkey 101
3 sprigs of mint (6-8 mature-sized leaves)
1 1/2 teaspoons brown sugar
1/2 cup crushed ice

In a traditional silver julep cup or double old fashioned glass, mull two sprigs of mint with the brown sugar and one ounce of bourbon for a few minutes, crushing the mint leaves. Add the crushed ice, the rest of the bourbon, and garnish with sprig of mint.

~ RG

What do a Frenchman, Vancouver bartenders, and Dufftown, Scotland, have in common? Grant’s Blended Scotch Whisky.

The explosion in popularity of single malt Scotch over the last ten years has had a widespread affect on our local drinking culture. One particular downside (from my perspective behind the bar) has been the demise of blended Scotch whisky’s prestige. Bartenders and patrons, alike, have swooned to the singular particularities and promises of extensive oak maturity in proprietary malts, while humble bottles of blends sit unloved and unused. As bourbon has surged in cocktail popularity, the drinker’s eye has stopped searching for magic in merged malts. Well, shame on all of us!

Fortunately, Ludo Ducrocq was recently in Vancouver to remind many of us of the beauty of blends – those from William Grant & Sons Ltd., in particular. Ducrocq is Grant’s first Global Brand Ambassador, a position he’s matured into since beginning his whisky career as a tour guide with the independent, family-owned distillery in 2000. Nothing, its seems, is done hastily at William Grant & Sons. Brian Kinsman, their current Master Blender, succeeded David Stewart after a decade-long apprenticeship. Stewart, currently the industry’s longest-serving master blender with one distiller, joined the company in 1963.

Ducrocq’s tasting began with the Grant’s Ale Cask Reserve, the only ale cask finish in the world. The purpose of ale cask finishing is not to make the Scotch taste like beer, but to achieve unique characteristics from the process. It is mellow and delicate with pure grain personality, finishing dry with a subtle spice. We were informed that blended whiskies were “finished” long before single malts ever were. By chance, the ale used to condition the cask was tasted one day and became, what we now know as, Innis & Gunn.

Next was the iconic Family Reserve – a Grant’s original since 1898. It has a wonderfully balanced taste, blended from 25 individual whiskies, including Glenfiddich and The Balvenie. This lovely drink has a greater length, with fire burning beautiful and deep. Vanilla, caramel, and light spice reward the nose and palate, while citrus oil personality gives a distinct precision to the whole package. There’s a good reason why it’s amongst the most popular blended whiskies in the world and ranked number one in Canada.

^ Ludo Ducrocq

The Grant’s Sherry Cask has the most satisfying nose of the bunch, with ripe, round and seductive persuasion. The palate is satisfyingly sweet from the start, offering expected tones of red fruit and raisins on the finish, imparted from the sherry soul of the finishing barrels. All of these whiskies inspire cocktail dreaming (see below), but the Sherry Cask is the perhaps the barman’s choice. Looking around the room, heads nodded in contemplation of the cocktail possibilities.

I don’t suggest that single malt or blended whiskies should be compared; they are different creatures for different purposes. I’m grateful to have them both in my bartending arsenal. Next time you have a hankering for a Manhattan, perhaps you should take a spin with its humble and extraordinary Scottish cousins, The Rob Roy or Bobby Burns. Your classic cocktail world will get just a little more wonderful.

Bittersweet Symphony
by Trevor Kallies, Donnelly Hospitality Management

• 2oz strawberry-infused Grant’s Sherry Cask Reserve
• 1/4 oz Fernet Branca
• 1 oz honey syrup
• 3 dashes Angostura bitters

Stir all ingredients together until very cold. Garnish with 1/2 a strawberry on rim and mint sprig. Serve neat.

Love Potion #8
by Dani Tatarin, The Keefer

• 2 oz Grant’s Sherry Cask Reserve
• 1/2 oz Oloroso Sherry
• 1/4 oz rosehip & hibiscus cordial
• 1 dash lavender bitters

Stir ingredients on ice and strain into cocktail glass over large ice cube. Finish with wide lemon zest with oils released over the drink.

Granted Wish
by Brad Stanton, Uva Wine Bar

• 1 1/2 oz Grant’s Sherry Cask Reserve
• 1 oz Dubonnet Rouge
• 1 dash Fernet-Branca
• 1 dash Angostura orange bitters

Stir ingredients over ice and strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Press oils from lemon peel over the surface of the drink and discard the peel.

Bobby Burns
by Jay Jones, BARJONESING

• 2 oz Grant’s Ale Cask Reserve
• 1 oz Sweet Vermouth
• 1/4 oz Benedictine (or Drambuie)
• 2 dashes Angostura bitters

Stir ingredients gently with ice until cool. Strain into a cocktail glass, zest with lemon or orange peel, and thank me.

~ Jay Jones with Rick Green

From the gaudiest of over-sized steins, to the daintiest cocktail crystal, Bartenders are fascinated with drinking vessels. There is something special about matching glass to beverage that can truly refine drinking experiences. The best glass isn’t bigger or taller or fancier or pricier – it’s personal, and it just has to feel right. The romance and traditions of drinking culture dictate our emotional approach, but the modern world of glassware has seen an evolution towards the science of taste.

Despite my affinity for antique chalices from the golden age of cocktails, there seems to be no other name in glassware that quite inspires anticipation or satisfies the senses like Riedel. Simply hearing the name tends to implant a sudden desire to drink, but more specifically to taste. The first family of glassware has been redefining the way the world understands booze for eleven generations. They persist in fascinating us with the biology of our own palates, by honing the physics of perception.

Riedel rocked the world of wine thirty years ago when they introduced their Sommelier series: stemware designed to proclaim the individual characteristics of specific grape varietals. Any of us lucky enough to have attended Riedel’s comparative tasting seminars (where they confidently pit their finely-tuned stemware against nameless competitors) have smelled and tasted the difference. The Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts was proud to host such a tasting recently with Riedel embracing the chance to show off their range of Spirit specific stemware to a room of spirit-savvy Vancouver alcoholists. Presiding over the congregation was none other than Georg Riedel himself, to provide inimitable insight on his family’s creations.

Three noble Riedel stems were set before us – shapely designs crafted to showcase Tequila, Cognac and Single Malt Scotch Whiskey. A fourth, more familiar glass stood behind: the iconic Brandy snifter. Mouths watered as we waited for our esteemed guest speaker to arrive. The man is a rock star in the world of drinking and accordingly we greeted him like respectful and adoring groupies, with loud and sincere applause. He is a confident man, who speaks with precision as purposeful as the construction of his glassware. His products are simply good enough to warrant such immodesty. The virtues of the glasses speak for themselves irrespective of Georg’s guidance; though just like a passionate wine steward can elevate dining, so did our host enhance this sensory tour.

The word Tequila is often said with shame, as it can evoke memories of alcoholic self-abuse and resultant indiscretions. The fact is that a fine Tequila is as diverse, vibrant, complex and wonderfully contemplative as its more globally esteemed counterparts from France and Scotland. For this tasting, the good people of Brown Forman supplied  palates with Herradura Reposado – an excellent and versatile Tequila that sees almost enough oak age (11 months) for it to be called an Anejo. The challenge with swaying scarred drinkers back to trying Tequila is that most of what we’ve been raised on is of low quality – consumed hastily and masked with salt & lime. Good Tequila can change minds; with Riedel glassware the positive effect is increased tenfold. This sprit is pure and clean, boasting notes of spice, herb, citrus, vanilla and the wonderful complexities of gentle oak ageing. Hasty nosing of any spirit tends to lead to the immediate burn of alcohol in the nostrils, and resultant frying of ones sense of smell.

Riedel’s Tequila glass is essentially a champagne flute – the lowered bowl height collecting aromatics above the vapour’s singe. Georg imparts that this glass has been created to specifically showcase Reposado Tequila – suggesting that un-oaked Blanco is too simple and that Anejo styles are simply too diverse to ensure predictable effects. We truly begin to understand the depth of philosophy and research that has gone into these vessels. The simple act of sipping Tequila from such an elegant stem sets an emotional tone for favourable impressions; belying the humble roots of the grand spirit of Mexico. The crowd quietly smiles and nods with the pleasure of deepened appreciation.

The Cognac glass is up next, and Hennessy VSOP is up to the task. I was trained as most Bartenders and drinkers are – sipping and serving Cognac in a customary snifter. The large surface area created by the iconic snifter bowl indeed allows the spirit within to breathe and the drinker’s hand to warm from below. The classic fishbowl of Cognac appeals to the bigger-is-better approach; some glasses taking on sarcastically large proportions. The consequence of tradition is quickened and unfocused evaporation, giving aromatics permission to escape too quickly thereby inviting scorching alcohol to run amuck.

If we shun tradition and talk perception, the Riedel Cognac glass is revolutionary – allowing otherwise unattainable cognizance. Designed with VSOP Cognac and higher (XO and prestige bottlings) in mind, the appearance is akin to a dessert wine or eau-de-vie stem; appropriate as Fine Cognac is indeed a blend of eau-de-vies. This subtly striking stem features a finely flared lip – seeking to support both form and function. The bowl is slightly broader, giving the Hennessy ample oppourtunity to percolate its attributes before they chimney towards our senses. Aromatics of caramel, clove and oak seem to dig deeper when unencumbered by boozy volatility – a far more seductive and satisfying nosing experience. The out-turned lip of the glass is cheeky; seemingly pursing itself to meet yours. The curl of the rim deposits Cognac on the tongue precisely where it means to – a little closer to the sweet-spot near the front; de-accentuating bitter and sharp perceptions in favour of bright citrus, rich berry, and dark sugars sensations. A proposed transition from established snifter to the Riedel Cognac stem may be cause for fear of change but the rewards of bravery are undeniable. More smiling and nodding ensues. As expected, Georg Riedel and his stemware are two-for-two.

I first encountered the Riedel Single Malt Whiskey glass over a decade ago during my time as Bar Manager at Araxi in Whistler. The design dates back to 1992 when Georg and his team were challenged by Campbell Distillers (of Aberlour fame) to develop a glass which would highlight the special characteristics of Single Malt Whisky. The result was the thistle-shaped beauty we’ve come to know and love drinking our Single Malt from for almost two decades. The glass dimensions are not dissimilar from a standard tumbler; consciously embracing the beloved and essential vessel of usquebaugh enthusiasts. This gorgeous goblet stands out in a crowd – perched on stem and foot  and crowned by the curl of its lip, creating a timeless and unique look that is unmistakably Riedel. When nosed – vibrant toffee, soft smoke and robust peat float easily up the crystal walls to your lucky face. Like the Cognac glass, the design of the out-turned lip is aesthetic and scientific; directing the spirit even further toward the sweet-perceiving tip of the tongue and dramatically enhancing the elegance and creaminess of single malt. Even though I’ve sipped my scotch from this glass for years, it continues to be a special experience every single time.

If I’m at a Bar and lucky enough to have a drink in my hand, I’m not one to get particular about my stemware. Sometimes the emotional value of a swilling a dirty dram from a sketchy glass is just part of the tavern experience. The antithesis of such satisfying squalor, is to lose yourself in refined Riedel indulgence. Find them behind an ambitious Bar, kept by an impassioned Bartender, then lose yourself in geeky wonder. Better yet, score yourself a set of these crystal wonders and enjoy them at home. You’ll thank me. You’ll thank Georg.

Taste your favourite spirits again – as though it were the first time. The Bar is open

~ Jay Jones

I can say with absolute certainty, that there is no liquid on earth which I have consumed more of than Maker’s Mark Straight Kentucky Bourbon – the sultry redhead having seduced me to the point of helpless and permanent infatuation. No other spirit has quite captured my affection or inspired my cocktail creativity as completely. A year ago, my lucky pilgrimage to the lovely little Loretto distillery confirmed my devotions. You’d think that by now I’d have had my fill; but here I find myself at The Refinery, seated at a Maker’s Mark seminar and tasting, hungry for more.

Ron Oliver presides over the group – it would be odd were it someone else. Though he carries the title of Distillery Diplomat for Maker’s Mark, Ron is and always will be a Bartender. For years he plied his craft in Vancouver as Bar Manager at Century and Blue Water Cafe amongst other, and a deep devotion to whiskey has long been his calling card. It was perfectly appropriate and natural when Ron took a full-time role as Ambassador for Maker’s Mark. A Bartender is only as good as their love for what’s in the glass, and when he speaks of his muse – that much passion is clear.

Lauren Mote is also a Bartender besotted by Bourbon. Part scientist, part chef; she deconstructs and reassembles flavours with reckless enthusiasm and precise science. The Refinery is her laboratory, and we are her curious guinea pigs. The reception concoction for tonight is her Silk Road Cocktail – its aroma subtle with curry spices (cumin, turmeric, fennel, coriander and ginger), but then erupting on the palate with vivid clove and citrus overtones. A heavy measure of Maker’s Mark lurks throughout the spice and is indeed the framework of the recipe. A float of Pender Island Pinot Noir atop the cocktail creates a striking visual, and soothing nuances of dry red fruit.

The night proceeds, and we enjoy Ron’s telling of the history of Maker’s Mark – a story that is woven thick with American history. Soon our Silk Roads are empty, and we dive into the first of the Whiskies. Before Bourbon becomes the magnificent amber masterpiece we know and love, it starts out life as White Dog – the foundation for maturation. It is clear as water, but somehow intimidating as it stares us down – captivatingly raw with intense vapor and the sweet, creamy flavours of distilled corn, wheat and barley. This young spirit must be aged a minimum of two years in charred virgin white American Oak to be called Bourbon – Ron has provided us with a sample of sophomore Maker’s Mark, and we start to see how integral a partner the oak is.

The group gets treated with some of the finest nibbles The Refinery has to offer – just in time for the star of the show. Nutty Comte cheese and earthy Bresaola are bold matches to the Whisky we’ve been steeped in so far, while Candied nuts are a particularly perfect partner to the personality of the finished spirit we are about to taste. Unlike most age-dated Bourbons, Maker’s Mark is bottled at maturity; when the distillers feel they have achieved their hallmark profile. Their Whisky never spends less than five years and nine months in oak, and often stays for seven years or more. Tasting alone determines when it’s ready for final blending and ultimately good enough to wear the famous wax-sealed bottle. Fully-matured Maker’s Mark is unmistakably well-balanced; forged by fire, then made complex with virile oak. It offers the sweet seduction of vanilla, butterscotch, spice and coffee in both aroma and flavour. For virgin palates, the bold and alluring sensation raises eybrows. For those of us familiar with this special experience, it’s like shaking hands and smiling with an old friend.

We peruse a sample of nine year matured Maker’s Mark, to help demonstrate what they don’t want it to taste like. Instead of the round, sweet and sophisticated front-palate tones – we now taste deeply pronounced oak character, increased bitter flavours and a more spicy burn. There’s nothing wrong with nine year old Bourbon – its just not what Maker’s Mark is about. Being true to their designs is what keeps this bottle unique in the world of Whisky.

Vancouver is a young and exciting city for Bartenders and drinkers alike. We are leaving an era defined by fear of spirit flavour, and boldly moving into its embrace. Whisky cocktails are once again loved, and proudly showing their many faces in some of the most exciting Bars in the town. What once was old is new again. Cheers to Maker’s Mark and The Refinery for an indulgent evening, and helping lead the charge.

~ Jay Jones

^ Areerat Lee (left) and Patcharee Champaphan, present Rochelle Clarke of the Glowbal Group with a bottle of Mekhong.

(Photography by Brian K. Smith)

The Bacchus Group recently hosted the Western Canadian launch of Mekhong at Sanafir Restaurant & Lounge. Guests were treated to glasses of Sabai Sabai—a Mekhong signature cocktail, also known as the ‘Thai welcome drink’—and Sanafir’s own Mekkong concoction, the Typhoon. The kitchen offered a selection of delectable Asian-inspired hors d’oeuvres to accompany the cocktails. Adding to the flavour of the evening, boxers from Universal Martial Arts provided a demonstration of Muay Thai, Thailand’s national sport.

Mekhong was first produced in 1941 by Sura Bangyikhan Co., Ltd.,  Thailand’s first distillery. It rose rapidly in popularity amongst Thais, helped in part by a dispute with France over their border with Laos along the Mekong River. Mekhong inspired Thai nationalist sentiment, thus becoming “The Spirit of Thailand,” much like Tequila is associated with Mexico and Cachaça, Brazil.

^ The red and gold ribbon tied around the neck of each Mekhong bottle is a symbol of good luck, like the ones Mekong River boaters tie around their vessels to ward off evil spirits.

^ Raul enjoys a spicy Typhoon, Sanafir’s signature Mekhong cocktail.

^ A delicious selection of Sanafir’s bite-size delicacies.

^ Boxers from Universal Martial Arts give a demonstration of Muay Thai.

Mekhong has been mistakenly called a whisky. In fact, it’s more like a rum, being made from a combination of 95% sugar (in the form of molasses) and 5% broken glutinous rice, blended with a mixture of indigenous herbs and spices. The 35% ABV spirit is versatile in cocktails. Undoubtedly, it will quickly become a staple in local Thai restaurants, ready to offer you some sabai.

SABAI SABAI
1 1/2 shots Mekhong
1 1/2 shots fresh lemon juice
3/4 shot simple syrup
pinch fresh sweet Thai basil
Club Soda

Pour Mekhong and the rest of the ingredients, except club soda, into a mixing glass; add ice and shake vigorously. Strain into a chilled martini glass. Top off with club soda and garnish with a sprig of basil.

~ RG

As a beer aficionado, I’ve always been curious about ale’s distilled cousin, whisky. Developing some understanding, however, takes time—something I don’t have a lot of. Fortunately, Elixir Bistro hosts a monthly tasting in the Velvet Room to help you accelerate the process. Whisky Wednesdays feature three varieties of whiskey paired with three tasting plates prepared by Elixir’s Executive Chef, Don Letendre. For only $30.00 per person, this is excellent value.

Bruce Mackenzie, who leads the tastings, has the depth of knowledge that is getting harder to find these days. For 25 years, Mackenzie travelled the world in search of products to buy for the BC Liquor Distribution Branch as their Portfolio Manager. He retired from the LDB in 2003 to go into software consulting.

^ Beverage consultant, Bruce Mackenzie, talks about whisky, highlighting the delicate Highland single malts of Glenmorangie during the last session.

Whisky has been produced in Scotland for hundreds of years, evolving from the uisge beatha (water of life) of the ancient Celts. Today, for the spirit to be called Scotch whiskey, it must be aged for at least three years and one day in Scotland.

Malt whisky is spirit distilled from malted barley, while grain whisky comes from a mixture of malt, unmalted barley, and other grains. Vatted malt is a blend of malt whiskies from different distilleries. Single malt comes from a single distillery, but will contain whisky from different casks and years, unless it’s labeled “single-cask.”

^ Glenmorangie sampling, from left: Original, LaSanta, Quinta Ruban, Nectar D’Or.

Differences in colour come from the different casks the whisky is finished in. As much as 60% of whisky’s flavour comes from the barrel. Before the last decade, whisky was aged in American White Oak casks that had previously contained either sherry or bourbon. Now, one can also find single malts ‘aced’ in beer, Bordeaux, calvados, Cognac, Madeira, and port butts.

^ Elixir’s Executive Chef, Don Letendre, describes the tasting dishes and pairing details:

^ A “Spanish” interpretation of a Croque-monsieur: country bread with Jamon Serrano and Manchego cheese.

^ Ajo Blanco accompanied the sandwich, the combination being paired with the Glenmorangie LaSanta (Sherry Cask Extra Matured).

^ Glenmorangie Quinta Ruban (Port Cask Extra Matured) was matched with duck breast served on a bed of Israeli cous cous.

^ Whisky crème caramel with coconut tuille and caramel chocolate bar accompanied the Glenmorangie Nectar D’Or (Sauternes Cask Extra Matured). What a dramatic conclusion!

The next Whisky Wednesday is July 15. For more information, or to make a reservation, call 604.694.2121.

~ RG

Urban Diner contributor Lauren Mote makes an appearance on CBC’s Living Vancouver with whiskey connoisseur, Andrew Starritt of Cask Strength to do a segment on “Women and Whiskey” at the Shebeen in Gastown.

Strangely the show is about exploring Commercial Drive “block by block”.  When did the Shebeen move to the Drive?  Score!

Watch the show here.