^ Frank Appleton, Scottie McLellan, and John Mitchell at the Great Canadian Beer Festival in Victoria.

On July 26, 1980, Labatt, Molson, and Carling O’Keefe locked out their unionized workers on the threat of a strike, and stopped distributing beer in BC. Since the Big Three produced all the beer sold in the province at that time, their strategy was to create a beer drought that would turn the public against the unions. What they didn’t count on was John Mitchell.

Mitchell was co-owner and manager of the Troller Pub in Horseshoe Bay. It was a popular local, reminiscent of the pubs in his native England. The only thing missing was the flavourful Real Ale he had enjoyed in his youth. In contrast, what passed for beer in BC then was “pale yellow, bland, fizzy swill that embodied the Myth of the Three Cs—that beer must be cold, clear, and carbonated,” recalled Mitchell.

In the first couple weeks of the lockout, only cider was available for sale. Then, the Liquor Administration Branch imported beer from Washington state as a stop-gap, but that lasted for only three weeks before there was, again, no beer to be sold. Mitchell resolved to brew his own beer for Troller, an idea he had first read about in The Illustrated London News. However, due to tied-house restrictions, brewpubs were illegal in BC. This would have to be changed.

Mitchell first lobbied Allan Gould, General Manager of the BC Liquor Administration Branch. Gould was supportive, but advised him that a presentation would need to be given to the Minister of Consumer and Corporate Affairs, Peter Hyndman, if any amendments to the Liquor Control and Licensing Act were to be made.

^ John Mitchell and his son, Andrew, toast with the first pints of Bay Ale served at Troller Pub in June 1982.

Not being a brewer or familiar with brewery operations, Mitchell was at a bit of a loss as to how to proceed. But as luck would have it, Roger Cross, a Troller regular, passed along an article from The Harrowsmith Reader II written by Frank Appleton on the decline of Canadian beer quality and how to homebrew. Mitchell contacted him the following day and the two subsequently formulated a plan for Canada’s first brewpub to present to Hyndman.

In what Mitchell describes as a stroke of “incredible luck”, the brewpub concept was approved in the fall of 1981, but with a caveat in the amended legislation requiring a commercial road to separate the brewery and the pub. Nevertheless, it was enough for Mitchell to obtain a brewing license. Appleton then built the brewing system with used dairy equipment, trained Mitchell how to brew, and created the recipe for the Canada’s first craft beer since Prohibition — Bay Ale, an English bitter inspired by Fuller’s London Pride.

In June of 1982, Horseshoe Bay Brewery and Troller Pub served their first beer to the public. It was an instant success. Mitchell had calculated that they would need to sell one or two kegs a day to break even. Eight were sold on the first day. Within two weeks, they ran out of beer. With a capacity of producing 32 kegs per week, they struggled, and sometimes failed, to keep up with demand. Despite this success, MItchell’s business partners did not share his vision of being able to serve international visitors coming for Expo 86, something much better than “ersatz fizz”. Within a year, he and Appleton left, and the brewery was closed.

^ John Mitchell behind the bar at Spinnakers with the original four ales he created for the brewpub.

A chance meeting with Paul Hadfield at a private beer tasting in 1983 resulted in Mitchell being invited to help found Spinnakers in Victoria with another partner, Ray Ginnever. Mitchell had Appleton design the brewhouse, and with his help, created their first four ales — Spinnaker Pale, Mitchell’s ESB, Mt. Tolmie Dark, and Empress Stout. More regulatory hurdles at the municipal, provincial, and federal level needed to be overcome, but a year later on Saturday, June 16, the doors to Canada’s first in-house brewpub opened to the public.

Horseshoe Bay Brewery and Spinnakers not only inspired other entrepreneurs to follow, they pried us loose from the stranglehold of the Big Three. Thanks to John Mitchell, Frank Appleton, Peter Hyndman, and other pioneers, the foundation was established for a craft brewing industry that has significantly changed the manner in which beer is enjoyed in British Columbia today.

In 2001, Mitchell wrote in Brewed in Canada,

Still the optimist, I am looking for the spot where I can find good fellowship, marvellous food and cask conditioned Real Ale, in that order – and at a reasonable price. I am confident that sometime in this Twenty First century my aspirations will come true!

They have.

On Friday, May 18, at 5:00pm, John Mitchell will tap the first cask of VCBW 2012 Collaboration Ale at the Roundhouse Community Arts & Recreation Centre to officially open Vancouver Craft Beer Week.

~ RG

In most cultures, social gatherings commonly involve three elements – food, alcohol, and music. With Vancouver Craft Beer Week I & II, the connection between beer and food, beyond the typical burgers and pizza, was well-established. Now, VCBW III turns the spotlight on music with our craft brewers featured as rock stars.

Music is represented by a range of genres further broken down into a variety of styles, each of which can be quite distinct. While rock began as a fusion of country and blues, it was only the beginning of a movement that has continuously evolved, pushing the boundaries of music. Craft brewing is similar in that we have stepped beyond the “historical period” that delivered predictable melodies (Reinheitsgebot), and entered the 20th century with new variations and styles emerging at a growing pace.

With that in mind, here’s a sample pairing of VCBW craft beer and rock to break down Vancouver’s notorious social barriers. Get friendly, and be sure to complete your “frat bat” with a Cascadian Brown Ale produced by the VCBW Collaboration Beer jam session our brewer rock stars played at Russell Brewing on March 30. No recordings were made. Dio died. That’s it.

^ Portage and Main (Leigh Eldridge photo)

Folk rockers, Portage and Main, describe their songs as “honest and genuine”, as if they had ridden “the timeless rails like tramps”. When they play at the Biltmore on May 22, eight Phillips Brewing beers will be on special. Choose the clean, refreshing Analogue 78 to pair with the clear vocal harmonies emanating from the stage. The soft, rounded palate, crisp mouthfeel, and slightly sweet finish will nicely compliment a sound P&M characterize as “reminiscent of the lighter side of [Crosby, Stills, Nash & Young]’s Déjà Vu”.

^ Rich Hope

Hoppapalooza III at the Alibi Room on May 20, sees trouble once again with Rich Hope bringing his infective brand of electric blues to shake the joint around. A heavier sound calls for a hopped-up brew to match Hope’s amped-up blues. Try the cask-conditioned Barnacle Wheat IPA from Lighthouse Brewing for a double-punch pick-me-up that will send your melancholy packing. If your foot isn’t tapping, you may be suffering from a Total Eclipse of the Hop.

^ Dave Varga, Red Truck Beer brewmaster, as “The Iron Man” (Brian K. Smith photo)

Heavy metal emerged in 1969 when the English band, Black Sabbath, took the blues-rock sound of the day, slowed the tempo, tuned down the guitars, accentuated the bass, and composed songs confronting the contemporary hard-edged social and political issues. They struck a chord with the public, releasing multiple albums that went platinum. Local tribute band, Sack Blabbath, take us to the dark side on May 19 at the Hop-Headbanger’s Ball. Don’t expect any light and happy fruit or wheat ales. Something more ominous is needed, like Red Truck Beer’s Limited Release English Strong Ale aged on oak. While the mood may be black, don’t overlook the underlying message, “Show the world that love is still alive; you must be brave.”

Vancouver Craft Beer Week Music Lineup

May 19, 4:00 – 9:00pm
Hop-Headbanger’s Ball with Sack Blabbath
Woodland Smokehouse
485 Commercial Drive

May 20, 4:00 – 10:00pm
Hoppapalooza III with Rich Hope
Alibi Room
157 Alexander Street

May 21, 2:00 – 6:00pm
Steam Whistle Rock Show & Patio Party
Electric Owl
928 Main Street

May 22, 7:00pm – CLOSING
Belgium on the Canvas with guests Casa Rosa
Raw Canvas
1046 Hamilton Street

May 22, 9:00pm – CLOSING
The Biltmore Presents Portage and Main with guests The Sumner Brothers
Biltmore Cabaret
395 Kingsway

May 24, 5:00pm – CLOSING
Beer Flights and Rock n’ Roll with The Butterfield Review
The Main
4210 Main Street

~ RG

The 6th Annual Spot Prawn Festival kicks off the BC spot prawn season with a Spot Prawn Boil on May 5 at False Creek Fishermen’s Wharf, from 11:00am to 3:00pm. Participants will receive a plate of fresh-off-the-boat prawns, accompanied by sides, sauces, and baked goods from Terra Breads. Beverages from Mogiana Coffee, R&B Brewing, and Ganton & Larsen Prospect Winery will also be served. Chefs from the Chefs’ Table Society of British Columbia will be hosting cooking demonstrations, offering ideas for how to prepare spot prawns at home.

Wild BC spot prawns (Pandalus platyceros) are the largest of seven commercial shrimp species found on Canada’s west coast. The population is monitored to ensure a sustainable fishery. During the six- to eight-week harvest season, which usually starts in May, a restricted number of commercial vessels with a limited number of traps can harvest spot prawns. Baited traps are spread along the ocean floor at a depth of 40 to 100 metres to minimize impact on habitat and bycatch. Any females caught with eggs must be returned live to the ocean. When stocks have been harvested to a pre-determined level, the fishery is closed.

Until six years ago, all 2,450 metric tonnes of the annual wild BC spot prawn harvest was exported to Japan. Most are frozen at sea by fishermen, then packed and exported to Asia. When Chef Robert Clark learned of wild BC spot prawns on a fishing trip with Steve Johansen of Organic Ocean, they came up with the idea of a Spot Prawn Festival so that we could also enjoy them here. The festival has grown in popularity from 200 foodies in its first year to over 1,100 people last year.

Wild BC spot prawns are prized for their sweet, delicate flavour and firm texture. When live, spot prawns are reddish brown. They turn bright pink when cooked, with defining white spots on their tail and white horizontal bars on the carapace. Starting Saturday, you can buy them daily, direct from the boat, from 1:00pm onwards at the False Creek Fishermen’s Wharf. How fresh are they? Steve Johansen fishes only 15 kilometres away from downtown Vancouver.

BC Spot Prawn Festivals:

May 5: False Creek Fisherman’s Wharf, Vancouver

May 12 & 13: Cowichan Bay Harbour, Cowichan Bay

June 2: The Cove Resort, West Kelowna

June 16: Westview Waterfront, Powell River

For further information:

• Official site: spotprawnfestival.com
• Learn about BC spot prawns: Pacific Prawn Fishermen’s Association
• Twitter: @spotprawnfest

~RG

Athough the majority of people in North America has been conditioned to drinking mass-market adjunct lager throughout the year, there is an historical seasonality to beer that is being rediscovered as people broaden their horizons to other styles. Some seasonal beers are obvious from their name. A Märzen is traditionally brewed in March to be served from late summer to Oktoberfest. A Maibock is so called because it was a spring beer served in May.

Saison (season) was also a seasonal brew. It was originally a low alcohol, refreshing summer ale made by farmers in Wallonia to give to their farmhands at harvest time. Contemporary versions, however, are brewed throughout the year and are stronger in alcohol (5 – 8.5% ABV). Nevertheless, with a combination of light to medium body and acidity, high carbonation, soft malt character, fruity and spicy flavours, saisons remain pleasantly refreshing.

Saisons are also versatile when pairing with food. To demonstrate that, Biercraft Executive Chef and Certified Cicerone, Don Farion, and Chef Stephen Chadband created the following four-course menu for their April 16 Battle of the Belgians: Reason for the Saison dinner that played on the “season” theme:

Spring
Gazpacho made from grilled, roasted, smoked tomatoes with grilled corn, lobster, chorizo.
Pairing: Ommegang Hennepin

Summer
Sloping Hill Farm barbecued baby back ribs, potato salad, green apple slaw.
Pairing: Saison Dottingies

Fall
Seared bay scallop, lemon brown butter, pumpkin & wild mushroom risotto.
Pairing: Saison Dupont

Winter
Christmas cake with crème fraîche, rum balls, mince pies, ginger shortbread.
Pairing: Glazen Toren Saison D’Erpe-Mere

With the presentation of each course, Farion explained the development of the dish and how it paired with the particular characteristics of the chosen saison. Certified Cicerone and BJCP Beer Judge, Adam Henderson was also on hand to provide diners with the history of saison and the background on each of the featured beers. With this level of beer expertise involved, Reason for the Saison was an excellent example of how beer can be part of a sophisticated dining experience. And at only $60, the meal and education were of exceptional value.

The next Battle of the Belgians dinner is Duck, Duck, Gueze on May 14, featuring three duck-focused courses paired with Cantillon Gueze, Cantillon Rose de Gambrinus, and De Ranke Kriek imported by Raincity Brands. Visit Biercraft’s Facebook page for details. Tickets are limited and sell out very quickly.

BierCraft Bistro
3305 Cambie Street, Vancouver
(604) 874-6900
biercraft.com‎

~ RG

I distinctly remember my first experience learning that what mixer you use can significantly affect the taste of your cocktail. I was at a friend’s party, testing out the Cosmopolitan recipe from my latest acquisition at the time, The New York Bartender’s Guide. The Cosmos were popular and we ran out of limes. My friend happened to have Rose’s Lime Cordial in his cupboard… Nope, not even close.

The same is true of sodas, especially if you are using a top quality spirit. Try a side-by-side comparison between a mass-market product made with high fructose corn syrup and artificial flavours to one made with cane sugar and ingredients your grandmother would recognize. The difference can be striking.

For the Donnelly Group’s Trevor Kallies, it is about finding a balance between quality, flavour, price point, and time.

I was introduced to Fentimans a few years back when it became the stocked ginger beer from our supplier. Right away, we saw a difference in the way our drinks tasted — much more ginger, and much less sugar… Recently, we have used the Tonic on our cocktail menus, and created full soda-inspired menus tailored entirely around the Fentimans flavours. Recent favorites have been Tom’s Amaro & Cola (Averna Amaro, Bulleit Bourbon and Cherry Tree Cola) and the Burdock Float (bourbon-based with Fernet, Dandelion & Burdock soda and egg white).

At Pourhouse Vancouver, Sazeracs, Manhattans, and Sidecars are mainstays. According to bartender, Craig Kenzie,

When making simple drinks there is nothing to hide behind. Imperfections are glaring and sub-par ingredients really stand out… When a classic Gin and Tonic is the right drink, we make sure to put the same level of quality in it as any of our pre-Prohibition cocktails: a proper classic rocks glass, a couple of square chunks of ice, a healthy measure of premium gin, a slice of lime, if so desired, and the finishing touch — a bottle Fentimans Botanical Tonic on the side.

Dani Tatarin of The Keefer Bar chooses mixers based on natural ingredients, versatility, and flavour profile.

As a mixer for a simple highball, Fentimans sodas provide an easy way to have unique ingredient combinations — like Rose Lemonade or Dandelion & Burdock — without having to make or source ingredients. Although making and sourcing ingredients is something I love to do, not everyone can do it or has the time, so I love to surprise guests with a simple drink that they can replicate at home.

Burlesque Lemonade
– by Dani Tatarin, The Keefer Bar

• 2 oz Blanco Tequila
• 4 oz Fentimans Rose Lemonade
• 3 dashes Red Date & Pepper Bitters

Build ingredients on ice in a Collins glass, stir, and garnish with lemon zest.

So not only does a bar’s spirit selection give you an indication of their cocktail quality, have a look at their mixers to ensure a premium spirit isn’t going to be sullied by pop-in-a-box soda.

~ RG

In 2007, the Vancouver-based Green Table Network began Canada’s first program to assist businesses in every segment of the restaurant and foodservice industry with reducing their environmental footprint. Since then, more than 100 operations have joined the Green Table Network to develop and implement tailored sustainability plans. As a result of that experience, GTN has redeveloped its core programs and services to make them more accessible and easier to manage.

At the heart of the Green Table Network solution is the online GTN 2.0 Guidebook. Covering 35 different categories — such as Buildings and Materials, Energy Efficiency, Waste Reduction — it’s an e-learning guide that also provides a checklist of recommended steps, a product and service supplier resource kit, and an online community for GTN members to share experiences.

Three levels of achievement are available by online subscription. However, to become an Approved Member, onsite verification performed by an authorized field agent is required. Approval also qualifies members for GTN’s customer recognition and marketing programs.

Green Table Network membership is open to restaurants, foodservice operators, and businesses that support them — equipment manufacturers, governments, public utilities, trade & professional culinary associations. Cost is determined by the scale of an organization’s operation and the desired level of achievement. Customized membership plans are available for multi-unit and concept groups, as well as for campus, corporate and other institutional operations.

Green Table Network
578 – 999 Canada Place
Vancouver, BC  V6C 3E1
Andre LaRiviere, Executive Director
Tel: 604.329.0864
info@greentable.net
greentable.net

~ RG

What began for Tyson Reimer and Ryan Murfitt as a search for space to house a smoker, has grown into a project that brings to mind aspects of the proposed New City Market food hub. Woodland Smokehouse & Commissary offers professional chefs & food artisans the capability to produce, package, and sell fine food products.

The 10,000-square-foot facility in Hastings-Sunrise is mostly devoted to commercial kitchen space that can be rented full-time, part-time, or by the day. Not only is it ideal for Vancouver’s street food carts, it gives restauranteurs looking to go beyond their own storefront the capacity to offer packaged, restaurant-quality meals for people to make at home. Chefs could even offer evening cooking classes.

Woodland S&C also has a retail area focusing on local and sustainable, imported fair trade, and organic products. Gourmet food producers can utilize the space to avoid the high cost of establishing their own location, either as part of a startup strategy or if they wish to remain small-scale.

In addition to Woodland’s house brand, other products currently available are from Cartems Doughnuterie, Calabash Bistro, Cobre, Earnest Ice Cream, and Peckinpah. Delicious Eastern European sausages, cured meats, pickles, preserves, smoked meats and fish, savoury pastries and breads are also made in-house daily by Chef Anatoli Belov.

Woodland Smokehouse & Commissary
485 Commercial Drive | East Vancouver
Tel: 604-681-0660
sales@woodlandsmokehouse.com
Web | Facebook | Twitter

~ RG

^ l to r, Sous Chef, Matthew Nichols, Executive Chef, Carl Sawatsky, Brewmaster, Gary Lohin.

Ever since Central City Brewing brewmaster, Gary Lohin, learned of the The Bacon Explosion, he’s been looking for an appropriate excuse to make it. (What took you so long, Gary?) The occasion finally came on February 25 when Central City launched their latest seasonal beer, a 5.5% ABV German-style smoked amber lager, known as a Rauchbier.

Rauchbier (smoke beer) harkens back to the days when most barley malt was dried over wood fires, imparting a smokiness to the grain that came through in the flavour of the resulting beer. When kiln-drying of malt with indirect heat was introduced, it became widely adopted and the smoke flavour in beer largely disappeared. However, two breweries in Bamberg, Germany — Schlenkerla and Spezial — have continued smoked beer production to this day, using beechwood logs.

What better to go with a classic Bavarian smoked Märzen than that other German staple, pork? Sous Chef, Matthew Nichols, was given the task of creating over 60 of the four-pound, 5,000-calorie “fatties” for Central City’s sold-out dinner.

First, a 5″ x 5″ woven bacon base was created and seasoned with Central City’s pork shoulder rub.

The bacon weave was then covered with two pounds of pork sausage filling.

Next, the sausage filling was covered with Central City’s house made stout barbecue sauce and topped with a layer of cooked bacon pieces.

The sausage layer was then carefully separated from the bacon weave, rolled up, and the seams sealed. Finally, the sausage was rolled over the bacon weave to completely wrap it up.

After baking, The Bacon Explosion was sliced into half-inch rounds, and served with spicy slaw, mashed potatoes and beer onion gravy. While The Bacon Explosion was originally meant to be barbecued and lathered with barbecue sauce to finish, paired with the Rauchbier, you get the smoke without the fire.

Bacon Explosion inventor, Jason Day, wrote, “Just a warning….the first Bacon Explosion leads to many more!” It also led me to want to pig out a bit more. Not part of the meal, but a fitting ending that I couldn’t resist ordering off the regular menu, was Central City’s Maple Chocolate Bacon Cheesecake. Sublime.

Central City’s Bamberg-style Rauchbier is a special limited release that may not be available again for some time, nor is it often that we see that kind of beer in BC from other brewers. If you’ve never tried this style of beer before, I recommend you visit the Central City Brewing brewpub before it is gone. Be sure to try it with food; you may like it even better! And don’t forget, you can get 2-litre growlers at the bar to take some home to enjoy.

~ RG

Photography by Brian K. Smith.

Six years ago, there were only two establishments in Vancouver offering cask-conditioned ale (AKA Real Ale) on a weekly basis – Dix BBQ & Brewery on Thursdays and The Whip Restaurant & Gallery on Sundays. Craft beer was still very much a sub-culture confined to brewpubs and the rare establishment where a manager or owner happened to know a thing or two about a good brew. To get the word out about offerings and activities, I began publishing the CAMRA Vancouver newsletter on a weekly basis.

It was at that time that I also read Garrett Oliver’s seminal book on beer and food pairing, The Brewmasters Table. Oliver inspired me to delve deeper into appreciating beer and food together. I began encouraging others with a culinary appetite to join me. More than anything, I felt cultivating a Flemish sensibility for beer and food would also resonate with women, offering a more cultivated dining experience that mass-market lager could never offer.

As beer friendly chefs, like Mike Carter (when at Dix) and Lee Humphries (of FigMint at the time), made successful forays into this fledgling frontier, it created a bit of a stir that began drawing in novelty seekers from outside the tight circle of Vancouver Real Ale aficionados. Morris Anh of The Whip was also interested in exploring the affinities of beer and food. So to highlight their weekly program of rotating cask ale supplied by R&B Brewing, I suggested they host a multi-course dinner featuring firkins from different brewers. Thus, the Feast of Five Firkins was born.

The Feast was actually a challenging step for The Whip to take. Normally, a chef can taste a beer and create a dish to go with it. But if a brewer creates a special, one-off cask-conditioned ale, it can’t be sampled ahead of time. It requires a close relationship between chef and brewer to consistently create successful pairings. The Whip was also new to serving multi-course meals to the entire restaurant.

To their credit, The Whip rose to these challenges and created an award-winning event that has become an annual tradition which sells out each time. For this year’s Feast of Five Firkins, Chef Andre Tremblay created the following menu:

^ Three Chili Glazed Perch, wild rice cake, citrus sun-dried cranberry sorbet.
Pairing: Tofino Brewing Tuff Session Dry-Hopped Pale Ale

^ Dry-Rubbed Rabbit Loin, blackberry reduction, sweet potato purée, charred lobster mushrooms.
Pairing: Yaletown Brewing Brick and Beam IPA

^ Heirloom Tomato and Watercress Caprese Salad, lemon poppy seed Muscovy duck breast, Gruyère.
Pairing: Cannery Brewing Wildfire Black IPA

^ Seared Wild Boar Medallion, shank confit demi-glâce, caramelized winter squash, root ragoût.
Pairing: Storm Brewing Bourbon Barrel-Aged Wee Heavy

^ Fubá and Papaya Custard Cake, framboise sweet cream, ancho chili ice cream.
Pairing: R&B Brewing Kumquat Cream Ale

Aside from the excitement of anticipating the pairings, what makes the Feast a grand occasion is the ritual involved in presenting each course. Before the food is served, the brewer explains the ale they created and then ceremoniously taps their firkin.

^ Yaletown Brewing brewmaster, Iain Hill, taps his cask of Brick & Beam IPA.

The live ale is served, unfiltered and unpasteurized, directly from the cask as the next course is presented to the diners. This happens five times.

^ The Whip’s Rose Weir with the 2012 Feast of Five Firkins brewers.

And at the end, when the brewers and staff have been congratulated by all on a fine meal, the firkins are free to be drained by those who still have room left to indulge (and, perhaps, the next day off from work).

~ RG

When I first became involved with Vancouver’s craft beer community, Belgium came to mind when thinking about the sort of beer culture I hoped we could cultivate here. Rather than attempt to transplant Flanders in the Lower Mainland, developing a Flemish-style appreciation for beer and food in local terms seemed more appropriate. It would have to include the Reinheitsgebot styles embraced by our pioneering craft brewers and the English traditions the Campaign for Real Ale advocates.

We’ve come a long way in the last five years. Previously, the average punter only saw draught industrial lager and fried food as natural partners, while the occasional brewmaster’s dinner was celebrated by beer geeks as Christmas come early. Now, more establishments are getting beyond the unappealing sleeve as the only glass to serve beer in. Chefs are also spilling more beer into their pots and liking the results.

For beer-forward businesses, this means taking it to the next level. Biercraft’s new Battle of the Belgians dinners offer a glimpse of what’s to come. Here’s what Chef Don Farion and his team offered last month at their “100 Points Quad Dinner” featuring five courses paired with Belgian quadrupels (amongst the world’s best beers, according to ratebeer.com) supplied by David Turnbull of Horizon Beers:

^ Mushroom cappuccino with spiced truffled cream.
Pairing: Trappistes Rochefort 10

^ Antipasti plate: applewood house-smoked oysters, caviar, Chimay à la Bière cheese, truffle chèvre, Wagyu beef rissoles, venison & blueberry sausage, fig & brandy jam, organic gold & red pickled beets.
Pairing: Chimay Grand Réserve

^ Spicy Asian beef tenderloin salad with bok choy, celeriac, roasted potatoes & yams, malt extract, and Cascade hops.
Pairing: Gouden Carolous Cuvée Van de Keizer Blauw

^ Yarrow Meadow Muscovy duck with beet tops, potato croquette, fig & sour cherry demi-glace.
Pairing: Westvleteren 12

^ Curried banana cannoli with salted caramel brittle.
Pairing: St. Bernardus Abt 12

There was a sixth “course”. At the end of the dinner, we were served tasting glasses of the five quadrupels and asked to rank them blind. The one-time best beer in the world, Westvleteren 12, garnered the top spot, followed by Rochefort 10 – both Trappist-made ales, which speaks to why there were high hopes for the Mont des Cats that I recently reviewed.

Without question, this was the best beer dinner I have attended to date. The fact that the extremely rare Westvleteren 12 was available, made it noteworthy alone. And for the quality that diners received, the $100 cost represented exceptional value. However, what truly elevated the experience was the creativity employed in offering excellent pairings that highlighted the synergy one can achieve with food and beer.

Biercraft’s next Battle of the Belgians will feature tripel ales.

~ RG

Abbaye Sainte Marie du Mont des Cats is a Trappist monastery located on a mountain outside the French village of Godewaersvelde, near the Belgian border. As with the likes of Chimay, Orval, and Rochefort today, Mont des Cats was once was highly regarded for its beer. However, during the Battle of the Lys in April 1918, an artillery bombardment destroyed the monastery and its brewery. Brewing ceased and the brewery was never rebuilt.

For those Trappist breweries that continue to brew, their stature has been such that commercial breweries have tried to take advantage of their reputation for marketing purposes. To protect the Trappist name, eight abbeys founded the International Trappist Association in 1997 and created a trademark for Trappist-produced goods. Similar to a denomination of origin, for a beer to be labeled Trappist, it must be brewed under the supervision of Trappist monks. The operation of the brewery must also be managed by the monks for the sustenance of the community, not for profit.

These strict guidelines have meant that, currently, only seven breweries can use the Authentic Trappist Product logo. Pessimists wondered if there will ever be another Trappist beer. Consequently, when the creation of Mont des Cats beer was announced last year on June 9, it naturally generated some excitement in the beer community. However, the abbey does not have a brewery, nor do the resident monks have any brewing expertise. Therefore, this beer is being produced by Abbaye Notre-Dame de Scourmont, the brewers of Chimay.

Mont des Cats is a bottle-conditioned (on lees) amber ale that produces a large, creamy head when poured, leaving the signature Belgian lace on the inside of the glass. It has a mild aroma with some honey sweetness, giving way to a bready yeastiness. There is an initial biscuit sweetness on the palate that is quickly overtaken by a brisk dryness from a combination of active carbonation and hop bitterness that extends to the finish.

Mont des Cats lacks the depth and complexity one associates with fine Trappist ales. Let’s hope that this is a work in progress, and that by the time it reaches North America, they will have perfected the recipe.

Brewer: Abbaye Notre-Dame de Scourmont (Chimay)
ABV: 7.6%
Category: Belgian Strong Ale
Appearance: 4/5
Aroma: 3/5
Flavour: 2.5/5
Mouthfeel: 3/5
Overall: 3/5
Score: 15.5/25
Availability: currently, only at Auberge Mont des Cats

Beer courtesy of Don Farion, BierCraft.

~ RG

^ NDP Fisheries and Oceans Critic, Fin Donnelly, launches shark fin import ban petition at C Restaurant. (L to r, Claudia Li, Dr. Chris Harvey-Clark, Fin Donnelly, Rob Stewart, Cécile Yuen, Robert Clark)

Sharks are sublime creatures. For 400 million years they have survived on Earth, evolving to become the oceans’ supreme hunters and shaping the evolution of other marine species. However, surging demand for their fins for use in shark fin soup and traditional medicine is decimating global shark populations.

With up to 73 million sharks slaughtered annually, we may see the total collapse of worldwide shark species within the decade. This will significantly disrupt ocean ecosystems that a large number of people depend on for much of their protein. Already in the last 15 years shark numbers in the Gulf of Mexico and the Mediterranean have plummeted by 90%, and by 75% in the northwestern Atlantic.

Despite the potentially grave ecological consequences, it will be challenging to end shark finning. Not only is it a multi-billion dollar industry in which organized crime is involved, people’s view of sharks is very different from that of elephants, rhinoceros, and even tigers. Media sensationalism has created a deep-seated anxiety in humans that is wildly out of proportion to the actual threat posed by sharks.

^ Wedding Campaigner, Cécile Yuen, as Harry the Shark Truth mascot.

While shark protection doesn’t have the same public appeal as panda conservation, measures are starting to be taken. Shark finning at sea has already been banned in jurisdictions such as the Bahamas, Chile, Ecuador, Guam, Hawai’i, Honduras, and the US West Coast. However, without a broad international ban on the practice, backed by an effective enforcement mechanism, the shark’s future looks grim.

What can you do to help stop shark finning?

• Don’t eat shark fin soup; adopt a substitute.
• Sign the National Shark Fin Import Ban petition.
• Call or write your Member of Parliament to tell them to support Bill C-380, Fin Donnelly’s Ban on Shark Fin Importation Act.
• Host a screening of Sharkwater.

For more information on shark finning, visit:

• Shark Truth
• Sharkwater

~ RG

^ Ecological Services Initiative launches at Granville Island.

A significant flaw in our economic system is how natural capital is not assigned any direct monetary value. This means, for example, that while a wetland produces clean water and controls flooding, the only economic value is seen in converting it to agricultural or industrial use. However, the total value of benefits provided by ecosystems is actually considerable. In Natural Capital in BC’s Lower Mainland, a study produced by the David Suzuki Foundation for the Pacific Parklands Foundation, the total value of all benefits provided by the area’s natural capital was estimated at $5.4 billion annually or $2,462 per person.

When natural processes are taken into account in the formal economy, decisions and outcomes can be quite different. A landmark agreement in New York City in 1997 saw 165 stream miles in the Catskill/Delaware watershed protected to improve the quality of the city’s drinking water. The US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) was about to mandate the City build a water treatment plant at a cost of up to $8 billion, with $250 million in annual operating expenses. However, by investing $1.5 billion in watershed protection, including paying farmers to remove sensitive lands from production, they were able to keep drinking water at a sufficient quality to avoid the need for a filtration facility.

In contrast, the smaller neighbouring Croton watershed was given up for development. Consequently, the EPA and the New York State Department of Health decreed that the City must filter this water by May 2012. Originally estimated at $800 million, the cost of the Croton Water Treatment Plant has ballooned to $3.4 billion since construction began in 2004.

Thanks to a new research consortium of farmers, ranchers, academics and conservationists, incorporating the value of natural capital in land use decisions is now being tested in BC. The Ecological Services Initiative will provide producers with financial incentives to adopt management practices that maintain or enhance the production of natural services, such as clean air and water, while growing our food. Participants will be compensated according to the land area they set aside and the loss of agricultural productivity. This will be to a maximum of $2,000 for measures such as erecting livestock fencing around sensitive areas, increasing the buffer zone between waterways and crops, planting trees to shade salmon spawning streams, or replanting native plant species to sustain indigenous wildlife.

ESI is endorsed by the BC Agriculture Council and the BC Cattlemen’s Association. It is funded by the Agriculture Environment and Wildlife Fund, BC Ministry of Agriculture, Columbia Basin Trust, Ducks Unlimited Canada, East Kootenay Conservation Fund, Sustainable Prosperity, and the University of Alberta’s Institute for Land Use Innovation. Thirteen demonstration farms and ranches, spanning a variety of different commodities and regions, are being monitored for biological and economic results. The viability of the concept will then be evaluated to see if a broader program with longer term application can be developed as a part of provincial agricultural policy.

~ RG

On a recent visit to Shanghai, I discovered the craft beer revolution is starting to make inroads into China. While Belgian imports are the most widely available, followed by Germans and the Brits, North American craft beer has only just arrived. These are thinly scattered amongst luxury hotels, Western restaurants, and more upscale supermarkets. But if you are a beer seeker, there are some diamonds in the rough you should target.

One of the most unusual spots I came across was Southern Barbarian, a restaurant specializing in Yunnan cuisine. Like a Southwest Chinese version of Fogg N’ Suds, their menu offers 99 imported beers and Tsingtao lager. Food-wise, I recommend ordering the Yunnanese specialties, such as Across-the-Bridge Noodles, chilli-tossed mint salad, fresh goat cheese, and sautéed pomegranate flowers. If, after a few high-test Belgians, you feel even more adventurous, consider their deep fried bamboo worms, honeybees, grasshoppers, or woodbugs. Insects make for good beer snacks.

Hiding in the middle of a tree-lined neighbourhood street, Jackie’s Beernest is as snug as it sounds. A wood-panelled room the size of a North American living room, it features a single picnic-like table in the centre. At the far end from the door, two glass-fronted fridges hold the Belgian-dominated chilled beer selection. On the right is a smaller fridge standing between two shelving units that contain replenishments and mementoes of Jackie’s notable beer tastings. Abutting the opposite wall, two small high top tables can accommodate small parties.

Jackie is a craft beer enthusiast who has taken on the herculean task of educating the public about beer, one palate at a time. He’s no mere opportunist. Jackie is also a homebrewer, so he knows his subject. On our visit, we gave him some BC craft beer to taste. To reciprocate, he offered us a sample of his housemade snake liquor, served directly from a transparent jar with its steeping ingredients clearly visible.

Cheers In is Shanghai’s equivalent to Brewery Creek, begun by two expat Frenchmen, Grégoire Prouvost & Cedric Bourlet. Their shop is even smaller than Jackie’s Beernest, but their selection is second to none; prices are comparable to what you would find here. An innovative, value-added service they offer is cold beer home delivery via electric scooter. Next year, they are opening a second location with triple the space. So if you have been suffering from skunky Chinese rice lager on your travels, an antidote can be delivered directly to your hotel with but a phone call.

Not all craft beer in Shanghai is imported. Fanchised brewpubs from the likes of Hofbräuhaus and Paulaner appeal to China’s German brewing roots. But if you imagine small Bavarian oases, what you actually discover is a bit of a mirage. For those with a North American craft beer palate, the two best destinations to satisfy your thirst are The Brew and Boxing Cat.

Located within the upscale Kerry Hotel (Shangri-La Hotels and Resorts) in Shanghai’s Pudong New District, The Brew immediately impresses upon entering. The striking, modern interior offers clean lines of glass, stainless, warm wood, and contrasting cream tabletops. The room’s centrepiece is a glassed-in brewhouse, fronted by a large pentagonal bar crowned with a three-tiered steel and glass chandelier that doubles as a glass rack.

Resident brewmaster, Leon Mickelson, joined us at our table to take us through his two lagers, four ales, and craft cider. His regulars consist of a Witbier, low-carb Lager, Pils, India Pale Ale, and a vanilla Stout. The MASH is a seasonal that, on our visit, happened to be a well-balanced roast pumpkin and pecan ale. Only open since February 2011, Leon’s already won medals at Beerfest Asia for his Skinny Green Lager and White Ant Wit. So, although it can be a bit of a trek getting out here if staying east of the Huangpu River, being located near a subway station means your cab fare will be better spent on fine-crafted beer.

Michael Jordan is not a basketball player. He’s the brewmaster at Boxing Cat Brewery who found his way from Portland’s Widmer Brothers to Shanghai via Bryggeriet S.C. Fuglsang in Denmark. We met with Michael one evening at Boxing Cat’s newest location, the swank Sinan Mansions, part of which is a pedestrian entertainment district redeveloped from the French Concession mansions of Shanghai’s early 20th century elite. There is no brewing done here. Rather, it’s a multifunctional space with a lounge on the ground floor, dining room above, and games room on top. The menu features authentic Southern cuisine with American-size portions.

In anticipation of our visit, Michael had chosen to release his Oaked Glasgow Kiss Scotch Ale aged on American oak Cabernet Sauvignon barrels. While chatting about the Shanghai craft beer scene, we sampled his seasonal pumpkin ale, the special barrel-aged Scotch Ale, and his regular Helles, Pils, Pale Ale, and IPA. Although there were a handful of expats around us, it was gratifying to note that the majority of patrons were Chinese.

Like those in the craft beer industry here, Jackie, Leon, Michael, Cedric and Greg are passionate participants in the brewing renaissance. With others, they’ve been working together to host beer festivals and tasting events, opening new horizons in beer to the Shanghainese. As a result, finding good beer in China is becoming less difficult.

~ RG

^ Tales of the Cocktail team at Xi Shi cocktail lounge (L-R) Michelle Dunnick, Melissa Young, Ann Tuennerman, Neely Hannah, Christina Gaspari Sudderth.

On Tuesday, Tales of the Cocktail co-founder, Ann Tuennerman, and her New Orleans team kicked off the countdown to Tales of the Cocktail on Tour Vancouver 2012 at the Xi Shi cocktail lounge in the Shangri-La Hotel. In less than 90 days, the first international satellite event of the world’s premier cocktail and spirits festival returns for its second time and will become a permanent annual fixture in our city.

A component of TOTC is the Cocktail Apprentice Program where talented bartenders are given an opportunity to further develop their bartending skills with some of the world’s most influential mixologists. They also gain experience working on large-scale events, which they may not normally encounter in their daily work. The bartenders chosen for the new Vancouver apprentice class are Evelyn Chick (Uva Wine Bar), Taylor Corrigan (Origin Restaurant and Bar, Toronto), Rebecca Davis (CHARcut Roast House, Calgary), Justin Taylor (YEW), Michael Webster (The Drake Hotel, Toronto), and Donnie Wheeler (Cin Cin). Vancouver’s Trevor Kallies (Donnelly Group) and Jonathan Smolensky (Hawksworth Restaurant) return as Senior Cocktail Apprentices.

^ The Beaver, the Dragon and the Bulldog – an original punch made especially for the TOTC reception by the Shangri-La’s Lead Bartender, Jay Jones.

Each TOTC festival features an official cocktail chosen via competition. Tales of the Cocktail on Tour Vancouver 2012 will showcase punch, a drink brought to England from India by sailors and British East India Company employees in the early 17th century. Derived from panch, the Hindu word for five, punch was originally made from five ingredients: alcohol, sweetener, citrus juice, water, and tea or spices; wine or brandy was used as a base. However, when Jamaican rum came into use in the mid-1600s, the modern punch was born.

After sampling more than 50 submissions from working Canadian bartenders, the TOTC judges selected Roaming Buffalo Punch from Chambar’s Jacob Sweetapple as the Tales of the Cocktail on Tour Cocktail Competition winner. Runner’s up were Katie McDonald of Victoria’s Veneto Lounge with her Helen’s Punch and Hawksworth Restaurant’s Jonathan Smolensky with his Homesteader’s Punch.

^ Chambar’s Jacob Sweetapple explains the inspiration behind his winning punch.

Roaming Buffalo Punch

• 500ml Roasted Almond infused Buffalo Trace Bourbon
• 200ml Barrel Aged Cointreau
• 200ml Remy Martin VSOP
• 50ml Angostura Orange bitters
• 200ml House made Falernum syrup (using maple)
• 750ml Jamaican ginger beer
• 100ml Fresh lemon juice

Combine all the ingredients into a large punch bowl also using a large block of ice. Garnish with dehydrated slice of orange and lemons, star anise, cloves and cinnamon sticks

In addition to extending the festival by a day, Tales of the Cocktail on Tour Vancouver 2012 will introduce cocktail pairing dinners, more tasting rooms and seminars, and 14 American craft distillers whose products are not currently available in Canada. It offers a taste of what’s in store at the 10th Anniversary Tales of the Cocktail in New Orleans, July 25-29.

Tales of the Cocktail on Tour Vancouver 2012
February 12-15, 2012
TalesoftheCocktail.com