I really started cooking for pleasure just as people like Nigella Lawson, Jamie Oliver, and Nigel Slater came on the scene. And even though I am much more grounded with Julia Child and Marcella Hazan now – I still love the freewheeling generosity of that generation of UK TV chefs. Nothing beats the joy of serving your friends something that is genuinely delicious but was crazy easy to put together.

Maximum pleasure for the minimum effort! It’s a culinary rate of return that fully appeals to my 80’s business school aspirations. However, easy does not mean sloppy or careless, indeed here’s the time to break out the really good ingredients.

Feeling peckish while putting together dinner with your friends? Try toasting some good bread, shower with shaved chocolate and then drizzling it with olive oil.

I got the idea from Mark Bittman’s piece in the NYT on Ferran Adria’s upcoming new cookbook on family meals. Sweet, crunchy, and completely delicous in a really grown up way. The dark chocolate draws out the heady fruity notes of the olive oil – so use your best stuff, and you’ll be amazed. A sprinkle of smoked sea salt would not be a bad call here.

I can’t think of a easier or lovelier way to start a summer meal than with a good gazpacho – and the best I’ve come across is again from the NYT, this time courtesy of Barbara Kafka and her Moroccan tomato soup.

Yes, the lack of bread may disqualify it from being a true gazpacho – but the toasted garlic and paprika adds a rounded depth that is sometimes lacking in our local tomatoes. The recipe calls for a food mill – but I just chop things up in a food processor and all seems to work perfectly. Replacing the white wine vinegar with Spanish sherry vinegar is my only other tweak.

And finally – the easiest and best summer dessert ever. Eton mess.

Yes, it’s my Anglophilia showing itself – but man is this ever delicious. Sweetened cream, ideally whipped with a whole vanilla bean – macerated strawberries, and meringues. The toughest part of this recipe is sourcing the meringues (in the spirit of laziness, I refuse to make my own). It’s just rich enough to feel like dessert, but not overly sweet or heavy – I mean, you could even convince yourself that’s it actually healthy.

There you go. Top marks, and you barely even had to try.

~Canucklehead

The inaugural issue of Lucky Peach Magazine, the hotly anticipated collaboration between Momofuku’s David Chang and McSweeney’s, is devoted to all things ramen. Included is a recipe for fresh ramen (alkaline) noodles – and it seems so ridiculously easy, either it’s culinary magic or the meanest practical joke ever. The recipe consist of AP flour, a few teaspoons of baked soda (bicarbonate of soda, baked for an hour at 250 degrees, turning it into sodium carbonate – an alkaline salt), and water. That’s it!

After pulsing the ingredients together in a food processor, I kneaded and rested the dough twice as directed. The dough is quite crumbly at first and requires a lot of kneading. And I mean ALOT. So important is this kneading process, that a Chinese person would not say ”I made” these noodles, but rather “I kneaded” them. This is perhaps why, unlike Italians, there is really no tradition for making noodles in a Chinese home, the work is simply too demanding.

The dough was thinned through an Italian hand cranked pasta machine, and cut the dough on the finest setting.

The smell of the cut noodles immediately takes me back to the days when there were still fresh noodle shops in Chinatown (one of which also did a side business in fortune cookies). I can’t really describe the smell –a sort of toasted wheat. It’s a scent I have not encountered since my childhood.

The noodles are boiled in plenty of unsalted water and here’s where recipe gets a little fuzzy. In my mind the noodles MUST be rinsed under cold water. As much as an Italian home cook never rinses pasta, a Chinese cook always does so – a Chinese cooking term called “running through the cold river”. This clears the noodles of any excess starch and sets the noodle for maximum chew and snap.

Keeping with the David Chang theme, I dressed noodles in a combination of his spicy Korean garlic chilli sauce and scallion ginger oil. It was completely delicious – everything you could hope for in a ramen noodle – buoyant and slick on the tongue with great clean flavours. Next time I’ll set the cooked noodles into some Chinese BBQ duck scented miso broth.

Harold McGee who originally put together the original recipe for the NYT, explains the science behind it all on his awesome website the Curious Cook. The alkaline conditions tighten the gluten bonds of the dough, creating the snappy chew and resiliency that Asian noodle lovers adore. At the same time, the noodles become a golden yellow, and taste eggier – despite the complete lack of eggs! It is culinary magic!

~ Canucklehead

UPDATE: The winner of the Ocean Wise Cookbook is L. Davis. Congratulations!

In celebration of the recent launch of  “The Ocean Wise Cookbook: Seafood Recipes That Are Good for the Planet“, I am thrilled to have an extra copy of this most beautiful book to give away to one of our lucky UD readers. Featuring over 135 unique sustainable seafood recipes from some of the top chefs in Canada, not to mention some stunning photography by Tracey Kusiewicz (foodiephotography.com) and wine pairing suggestions by Tom Firth (wineaccess.ca), this book is a wonderful and inspired addition to one’s kitchen library.

^ Vancouver Aquarium president John Nightingale, editor Jane Mundy, Chef Robert Clark, and Ocean Wise program manager, Michael McDermid proudly show off the new Ocean Wise Cookbook

Enter to WIN a copy of the Ocean Wise Cookbook by correctly answering the following questions in the comments field below:

1) What year was the Ocean Wise program founded?

2) In 2009, Ocean Wise received which prestigious award?

3) Name 3 sustainable seafood choices…

4) Name 3 unsustainable seafood choices…

5) What supermarket is now featuring Ocean Wise seafood?

NOTE: a winner will be randomly drawn from all the collected correct submissions and revealed at 12 noon on Friday, November 5th, 2010.

Good luck!

[Image source: Aug 2010 issue of Wired]

What do you get when you stuff a tiny warbler inside a bunting, which is then put inside a lark then a thrush into a quail and then into a lapwing followed by a plover stuffed inside a partridge, followed by a woodcock inside a teal, then a guinea fowl inside a duck, then put into chicken, then inside a pheasant stuffed into a goose, then into a turkey, and finally all sixteen birds packed into a giant bustard to be roasted to perfection?

French gastronomist, Grimod de la Reynière, included a recipe for this incredible creation called “Rôti Sans Pareil” (roast without equal) in a volume of L’Almanach des Gourmands, published in a series of volumes from 1803 to 1812.

So, as much as arrogant Americans like the NFL’s John Madden like to think they’re are the premier game day gourmands with their diminutive Turducken, they still got nothing on the French. ~ PK

Further reading: Liberty, Equality, Gastronomy: Paris via a 19th-Century Guide ~ NY Times Travel

There are two types of drinkers in the world, those who drink gin, and those who used to drink gin. It’s the most divisive of the spirits simply because everyone seems to have had at least a brief affair with gin’s juniper-y goodness. Often times, these affairs are volatile and intense with a finite and messy conclusion, usually involving an insincere oath to ‘never. drink. again.’

Other relationships with ‘Dutch courage’ are more smooth and casual…like mine. Me and gin hook up every so often, casual-like, just a shared moment or two over a couple of olives and then we part ways, no promises, no strings, it works for us.
 My latest rendezvous with London’s adopted spirit was a blind date set up by UD with 24, the latest entry into the so-called ’super-premium’ gin category.

The fine folks at the Granville Room played host to International Brand Ambassador Dan Warner and the Beefeater crew to officially launch Master Distiller Desmond Payne’s marriage of the traditional Beefeater recipe with three new botanicals, two of which were inspired by Beefeater founder James Borough’s other career as a prominent tea merchant of his day. For 24 hours, Payne steeps the nine botanicals used in traditional Beefeater along with Japanese tea, Chinese tea, and Grapefuit peel, in grain spirit before final distillation. The result is unique to up-market gin world as it is an enhanced and more refined version of the flagship spirit, but not a complete re-boot of the brand, this gin is still unmistakably Beefeater.

The staid, if somewhat curmudgeonly brand had been driven back into the keep by sexier brands like Tanqueray 10 and Bombay Sapphire over time but this new entry sees the Yeoman Warder swinging a big lance (or whatever that thing the dude on the bottle is holding) and mounting a counter attack.

Beefeater, to me had always been best suited to a healthy dose of tonic and some ice, being a little too assertive for a martini, but the mellowing influence of the young green teas and the crisp freshness of the grapefruit doesn’t cry out for vermouth, but softly beckons for a dose of fine French Vermouth, Noilly Pratt perhaps, and a drop or two of Fee Brothers orange bitters for a fine martini.

Granville Room’s mixologist-in-residence Trevor Kallies went a few steps further in nurturing Beefeater 24’s characteristics into a few different cocktails; my favorite was his “London Falling”

- 2oz beefeater 24
- 0.5 red grapefruit
- 0.5 white grapefruit
- 1oz basil infused simple syrup
- white from 1 egg
- bitters

Wash glass with old fashioned bitters, shake and strain all liquids into double rocks glass. Garnsih withlarge basil leaf.

 A wonderful use of basil and grapefruit to emphasize the crisp and fresh notes of the gin.

Cheers. ~ RC

^ Areerat Lee (left) and Patcharee Champaphan, present Rochelle Clarke of the Glowbal Group with a bottle of Mekhong.

(Photography by Brian K. Smith)

The Bacchus Group recently hosted the Western Canadian launch of Mekhong at Sanafir Restaurant & Lounge. Guests were treated to glasses of Sabai Sabai—a Mekhong signature cocktail, also known as the ‘Thai welcome drink’—and Sanafir’s own Mekkong concoction, the Typhoon. The kitchen offered a selection of delectable Asian-inspired hors d’oeuvres to accompany the cocktails. Adding to the flavour of the evening, boxers from Universal Martial Arts provided a demonstration of Muay Thai, Thailand’s national sport.

Mekhong was first produced in 1941 by Sura Bangyikhan Co., Ltd.,  Thailand’s first distillery. It rose rapidly in popularity amongst Thais, helped in part by a dispute with France over their border with Laos along the Mekong River. Mekhong inspired Thai nationalist sentiment, thus becoming “The Spirit of Thailand,” much like Tequila is associated with Mexico and Cachaça, Brazil.

^ The red and gold ribbon tied around the neck of each Mekhong bottle is a symbol of good luck, like the ones Mekong River boaters tie around their vessels to ward off evil spirits.

^ Raul enjoys a spicy Typhoon, Sanafir’s signature Mekhong cocktail.

^ A delicious selection of Sanafir’s bite-size delicacies.

^ Boxers from Universal Martial Arts give a demonstration of Muay Thai.

Mekhong has been mistakenly called a whisky. In fact, it’s more like a rum, being made from a combination of 95% sugar (in the form of molasses) and 5% broken glutinous rice, blended with a mixture of indigenous herbs and spices. The 35% ABV spirit is versatile in cocktails. Undoubtedly, it will quickly become a staple in local Thai restaurants, ready to offer you some sabai.

SABAI SABAI
1 1/2 shots Mekhong
1 1/2 shots fresh lemon juice
3/4 shot simple syrup
pinch fresh sweet Thai basil
Club Soda

Pour Mekhong and the rest of the ingredients, except club soda, into a mixing glass; add ice and shake vigorously. Strain into a chilled martini glass. Top off with club soda and garnish with a sprig of basil.

~ RG

(Photo by: Paul Kamon)

The Dankowskie Cocktail
by Jay Jones ~ head bartender at Voya at the Loden

Vodka just doesn’t get enough credit. Millions of cocktails have been made using Vodka, but hardly any about Vodka. The challenge is the purity of the spirit: by definition, Vodka is intended to have no distinguishing characteristics of appearance, aroma or flavour.  Belvedere Vodka, though clean and clear, has a distinct style derived from the Dankowskie Gold Rye grain it is made of. Looking deeply into its profile, the Rye lends a gentle touch of spice, while there is creaminess to the palate and hints of vanilla and citrus. These characteristics are ever so discreet, but with the right accents, they can be announced much more distinctly.

Tuaca Liquore Italiano is made from brandy with flavours of orange and vanilla. It complements the Vodka, adds sweetness, colour and body, reflecting the same tastes in the Belvedere. Dashes of orange bitters increase the citrus nature, bringing a depth, and binding the other elements together. When folded, a fresh slice of orange skin releases bitter oil. When these oils are lit, the resulting flame caramelizes them and coats the surface of the drink with complex aromatics. The drink should be stirred, chilling and blending the ingredients, but never so cold that it hides the more subtle scents and tastes. The cocktail is full of aroma and flavour, but ultimately speaks the virtues of Belvedere Vodka itself. You could say that, by intention, the Dankowskie is to Belvedere Vodka, what the Manhattan is to Rye Whiskey.

Recipe
In a Cocktail Glass:
2 oz Belvedere Vodka
¾ oz Tuaca Liquore Italiano
2 dashes Regans’ Orange Bitters No.6
1 fresh orange peel
flame (lighter or match)

Method
-combine the Belvedere, Tuaca and orange bitters with ice in a mixing glass
-stir gently, chilling the liquid but without making it ice cold
-strain into a cocktail glass (unchilled)
-flame the orange peel by holding it next to the glass, squeezing its oils through flame, and across the surface of the finshed cocktail
-rub the rim with the peel and place it in the drink

I am a bit of a shameless coffee and cookie junkie.  So, when I recently had the opportunity to visit with long-time UD Forum member “Biscotti Queen” (a.k.a. Your Secret Chef) at her home to learn some of her baking secrets for this double-baked Italian cookie classic, I happily trekked through the snow to do it. ~ PK

Recipe inside…

CRANBERRY AND PUMPKIN SEED BISCOTTI

This classic flavour combination is the quintessential holiday biscotti. Butter is added to the mix to increase the tenderness of the finished product.

ACTIVE TIME: 45 min
TOTAL TIME: 2 1/2 hr
MAKES: 5 to 6 dozen biscotti.

INGREDIENTS:
3 cups All purpose flour
1 1/2 tsp Baking Powder
1/4 tsp Salt
1/2 cup Butter, softened
1/2 cup Granulated sugar
3 Large eggs
2 tsp Vanilla extract or paste
1/2 cup pumpkin seeds, toasted
1/2 cup cranberries

^ 1. Put oven racks in upper and lower third positions of oven and preheat oven to 350°F (convection 325)

^ 2. Whisk together flour, baking powder and salt in a small bowl.

Cream butter and sugar together in a large bowl until light & fluffy (hand-held mixer on medium-high works well). Add eggs, beating to combine; stir in vanilla, pumpkin seeds and cranberries. Add dry ingredients all at once, and stir gently just until combined.

^ 3. Dough will be moderately stiff; you may need to mix a little with your hands.

^ 4.  Divide dough into 4 portions, and turn each portion on to a parchment-lined cookie sheet. Using floured hands, form each portion into a 1” diameter log, placing them about 4” apart on the cookie sheet. Pat each dough shape to flatten to about 3/8” thick.

Bake, rotating sheet 180 degrees and switching position of sheets halfway through baking, until logs are very pale golden and firm, about 20-25 minutes total. Tops may crack. Cool logs on baking sheets about 10 minutes, then remove to racks to cool completely.

^ 5. Carefully transfer 1 biscotti log to a cutting board and cut diagonally into 1/4-inch to 3/8-inch-thick slices with a serrated knife. Arrange slices, cut sides down, in 1 layer on a baking sheet. Repeat with remaining logs, transferring slices to sheets. Bake, turning over once, until golden and crisp, 25 to 35  minutes total.

^ 6. Cool biscotti on baking sheets on racks, about 15 minutes.  Remove biscotti to cooling rack to cool completely before storing.  Store in an airtight container at room temperature 4 weeks, or frozen in layers, 8 weeks.