I love road trips. Even a short one holds the promise of roadside diners and strange new foods. And as far as I’m concerned, a bag of Tim’s Cascade Jalapeno chips counts as culinary exotica – as long as you are eating them on the I-5.

Lately, trips to Seattle have been particularly rewarding. While Vancouver balances West Coast freshness with French rigour and Asian brightness, Seattle takes it’s own distinctive point of view with local ingredients. It’s an approach that marries a laid back lo-fi vibe with rock solid technique. And the spate of Puget Sound openings in recent years has been simply astounding – Willow’s Inn, Delancey, and Sitka and Spruce among others.

For my money, there is no place better than The Walrus and The Carpenter. And there are plenty of others willing to endure two hour waits who agree with me. A local told me he puts his name down for a table, goes home, takes a shower or perhaps a nap – and then returns refreshed for dinner. Smart. I’ll have to try that approach one day with Vij’s.

When you are finally seated – you take in the beautiful bright room, anchored by a large zinc oyster bar.

I gotta tell you. It’s a strange menu - lot’s and lots of oysters, small plates of lightly cooked seafood and salads that mix chilled greens with various forms of eggs. Virtually no cooked red meats or poultry. Confused – the first time I went, I tried to force a traditional three course narrative, and it did not quite work. The second time, I simply surrendered to how the kitchen was trying to guide my meal – and it was perfection.

The first order of business were the oysters – fresh, cold, and perfectly shucked.

Not a drop of precious liquor spilled, and not an mark on the delicate flesh. I discovered I could eat a dozen Hama Kama from Hood Canal in a disturbingly quick go.

The fried oysters were the best I’ve ever had. Crisp cornmeal batter on the outside, warm almost custard-like within. In my imagination of what-would-I-eat-right-now-if-I-could-have-anything, these deep fried oysters pretty near the top of the list.

The show stopper of the evening – grilled sardines with shallots, walnuts, and parsley. Warm and succulent fish – offset with a light vinaigrette and grounded with bitter walnuts. Reminds you immediately of the best escabeche or savoro of the Mediterranean. I ate this bones and all.

Finished the meal with bay leaf panna cotta – a balancing act between indulgent textures with restrained savory sweetness.

How can you tell attention to detail is crazy? When everything looks so fucking effortless. Everything tastes of itself – but only more so, gently and smartly amped up.

They take an admirably hardline to their seafood – it is prepared how the kitchen feels like it best showcases the ingredient, full stop. On my first visit, I was told that they had local mackerel which they served very lightly grilled. I must of had a dubious expression on my face, because the waitress told me to trust them, it would be really good. And it was.

I continue to be richly rewarded for my trust.

The Walrus and the Carpenter
4743 Ballard Ave NW | Ballard
Seattle, Wa 98107
1.206.395.9227
Website | Twitter | Facebook

~ Canucklehead pays for his own food and avoids the no fly list by driving through the Nexus line as quickly as possible.

Joe Wiebe is the Thirsty Writer. He has written about craft beer for numerous magazines and newspapers including BCBusiness, Toro, Vancouver, WestWorld, Beer West, Taps, and Taste. He is the BC columnist for the Northwest Brewing News and writes the “Thirsty” column in Vancouver View magazine. He is also working on two craft beer books: a guidebook to BC craft breweries (Douglas & McIntyre, Spring 2013) and Tales from Brewery Creek: The History of Beer and Brewing in Vancouver (Anvil, Fall 2013). Quench your thirst at www.thirstywriter.com.

Hunter climbed the culinary ladder from an early age, and has been called “Chef” for a few years now. Currently, one of the Chefs behind East Vancouver’s Waldorf Hotel, he leads a double life with environmental and political NGO’s on the side. It’s like this – at work he literally cooks up carne asado like a machine with several surgeon-sharp knives at his side, and at home he’s a quiet lactose-intolerant near-vegan who likes to read about urban agriculture and sustainability. With almost 10,000 hours cooking under his belt across Canada, and years of events with NGO’s, Hunter is fit to talk food – with a hint of politics, a dash of environmental issues, and a pinch of local agri-news. Salt to taste.

His writings will include the odd food review here and there, but, mostly – it’ll have to do with Vancouver’s evolving food system: rooftop gardens, gardens as classrooms, urban agriculture on the downtown eastside, community plot development, the re-localization of it all, who’s doing what? – and so on.

Less importantly – Hunter likes pickles, hats, wine, and well-groomed facial hair. His main influences are Robin Hood, Henry Rollins, Martin Luther King, Ghandi, and Don Cherry.

Hans Peter Meyer is a father, dancer, host, writer, photographer – and the primary food and beverage correspondent for the mid-Vancouver Island region. He’s written for EAT Magazine (2004-2011), and now produces the Food Centrefold for the monthly Island Word magazine (2010-current). He co-hosts an active 750+ member Facebook page called Eating and Drinking in the Comox Valley, and feeds the lifestyle blog at BonVivantVancouverIsland.com blog. You can follow him on twitter at @BonVivantVanIsl.

Ron Berezan is the founder and proprietor of The Urban Farmer and is joined by colleagues from throughout Western Canada in this work. Ron has been an organic gardener for over 30 years and permaculture practioner for over ten years. He is trained in the “Grow Bio-intensive” organic gardening method at Ecology Action in Willits, California, and in Permaculture Design through the Kootenay Permaculture Institute and the Occidental Arts and Ecology Centre. He is a Master Gardener through the Devonian Botanic Gardens in Edmonton Alberta. Ron has taught hundreds of permaculture and organic gardening workshops in BC, Alberta, Manitoba, Ontario and the Yukon and has consulted on many permaculture and urban agriculture projects throughout the country. He has a close working relationship with the Antonio Nunez Jimenez Foundation and the Association of Cuban Agricultural Technicians and Foresters in Cuba and regularly takes groups of Canadians to Cuba for educational tours and permaculture internship opportunities.

Ron writes on a variety of permaculture, urban agriculture and organic gardening themes and has been a regular gardening commentator on CBC radio and in a range of newspapers and gardening magazines. He is the author of the upcoming book, “Down the Garden Path – Cultivating Hope for the Coming Ecological Age.”

Kristy digs food. Literally – in her front yard. She also writes freelance for various publications including Relish and Edible Vancouver, eats everything – though she has a particular penchant for Italian cuisine – and drinks more than her fair share of vino. She also maintains a culinary food blog where she engages with her readers about the “ethical” dilemmas of eating luxuriously. When she’s not dreaming food, preparing food, eating food, or writing food, she likes long hikes in Vancouver Island back country, camping, reading good novels, bourbon, and pigs. Not all at the same time.

After many years of bartending in Vancouver at establishments such as Babalu, The Opus Hotel and The Caprice, Gerry moved to the Okanagan and currently tends bar at RauDZ Regional Table where he works closely with the kitchen to design a cocktail program that utilizes locally sourced organic fruits, vegetables, herbs and roots as well as locally distilled spirits and beers. His approach to cocktailing could be described as “field to glass” and he is a strong proponent of complimenting spirits with real ingredients sourced from the local community.

Joie Alvaro Kent swears that there’s a baby picture of her out there with a spoon in one hand and a pen in the other, belying her future as a self-confessed kitchen geek and word nerd. Her food writing regularly appears in MONTECRISTO magazine, NUVO magazine, Vancouver magazine and its annual Eating & Drinking Guide, and Best Places Vancouver. She also puts her palate through its paces as a judge for the Vancouver magazine Restaurant Awards and the Chinese Restaurant Awards. Erstwhile rock climber and fledgling cyclist, Joie’s love of sports is partially fueled by the need to offset her massive caloric intake while reconnaissance dining.

Trevor spent the past 6 years responsible for Granville Room’s cocktail program, and has recently taken over the Bar program for the entire Donnelly Group. He has completed Pernod Ricard’s BarSmarts program and other spirit education courses. For Trevor, continuous learning is extremely important. His passion for cocktails has taken him to Kentucky, Tokyo, San Francisco, New York and New Orleans and many other cities exploring cocktail culture. www.dhmbars.ca

Regarded as one of Vancouver’s premier barmen, Shaun has refined his palate via some of the world’s most renowned bars. Adventures have seen him competing in the U.K. and France, touring distilleries throughout Europe and the U.S, and participating in internationally recognized seminars. His philosophy is grounded in a passion for history and culture of cocktails, proper techniques and barware. Shaun was recognized as the 21st Annual Vancouver Magazine Restaurant Awards Bartender of the Year. www.labattoir.ca

Eric Lorenz is a tequila and mezcal aficionado, importer, writer, educator, booze traveler, and researcher in Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada.

Eric is Canada’s first Certified Mezcalier and holds the CSS, the Distintivo ‘T’ Diploma from the Consejo Regulador del Tequila, certifications from WSET, and has been a Judge at the annual Spirits of Mexico Competition in San Diego. His semi-journalistic thoughts on agave spirits as Canada’s National Tequila Examiner are shared with the world at Examiner.com.  Extensive travels and research in the lands of tequila and mezcal in Mexico have given him a insider’s perspective of everything from the indigenous origins of mezcal to the modern production methods employed to produce tequila. Through his company, Lorenz Agave Spirits, he has introduced many to the art and the sensory delights of tasting agave spirits via seminars & dinners for the general public, corporate clients, bar and hospitality staff, and at agave spirits festivals throughout Canada and the USA. He is also occasionally called in as a tasting consultant to new brands looking to enter the Canadian marketplace.

Sheila Whittaker grew up in Osoyoos as the wine region was growing up around her.  She became addicted to wine education partially because the more she learned, the more she realized there was to learn, and partially because ‘sommelier’ has a nicer ring than ‘wine-o.’ Now a Certified Sommelier with a Bachelor of Journalism who loves adventures, she is destined to write about wine and travel, which she does on her blog RubySuitcase.com.

Today, we welcome Top Table’s lastest creation, Thierry Chocolaterie Patisserie Cafe to the Urban Diner community.

Check out their new listing: here

Inspired by speaking with many of his seasoned wine friends and his readings John’s quest for knowledge began. John Clerides jumped at the opportunity to open Marquis Wine Cellars in 1986, which over the last few decades has become one of Vancouver’s best loved wine stores.

John has travelled extensively though Australia, Washington, Oregon, California, Italy, Spain, France and Austria, sourcing unique, flavourful, undiscovered wines. Even after 25 years his quest for discovery remains unabated. You will most likely find John in either one of three places, at Marquis Wine Cellars assisting his clients, in a vineyard or cellar somewhere in the wine world, or his most preferred location: at the local ice rink playing hockey.

Today, we are excited to welcome Hawksworth Restaurant to the Urban Diner community.

Check out their new listing: here