When I first became involved with Vancouver’s craft beer community, Belgium came to mind when thinking about the sort of beer culture I hoped we could cultivate here. Rather than attempt to transplant Flanders in the Lower Mainland, developing a Flemish-style appreciation for beer and food in local terms seemed more appropriate. It would have to include the Reinheitsgebot styles embraced by our pioneering craft brewers and the English traditions the Campaign for Real Ale advocates.
We’ve come a long way in the last five years. Previously, the average punter only saw draught industrial lager and fried food as natural partners, while the occasional brewmaster’s dinner was celebrated by beer geeks as Christmas come early. Now, more establishments are getting beyond the unappealing sleeve as the only glass to serve beer in. Chefs are also spilling more beer into their pots and liking the results.
For beer-forward businesses, this means taking it to the next level. Biercraft’s new Battle of the Belgians dinners offer a glimpse of what’s to come. Here’s what Chef Don Farion and his team offered last month at their “100 Points Quad Dinner” featuring five courses paired with Belgian quadrupels (amongst the world’s best beers, according to ratebeer.com) supplied by David Turnbull of Horizon Wines:
^ Mushroom cappuccino with spiced truffled cream.
Pairing: Trappistes Rochefort 10
^ Antipasti plate: applewood house-smoked oysters, caviar, Chimay à la Bière cheese, truffle chèvre, Wagyu beef rissoles, venison & blueberry sausage, fig & brandy jam, organic gold & red pickled beets.
Pairing: Chimay Grand Réserve
^ Spicy Asian beef tenderloin salad with bok choy, celeriac, roasted potatoes & yams, malt extract, and Cascade hops.
Pairing: Gouden Carolous Cuvée Van de Keizer Blauw
^ Yarrow Meadow Muscovy duck with beet tops, potato croquette, fig & sour cherry demi-glace.
Pairing: Westvleteren 12
^ Curried banana cannoli with salted caramel brittle.
Pairing: St. Bernardus Abt 12
There was a sixth “course”. At the end of the dinner, we were served tasting glasses of the five quadrupels and asked to rank them blind. The one-time best beer in the world, Westvleteren 12, garnered the top spot, followed by Rochefort 10 – both Trappist-made ales, which speaks to why there were high hopes for the Mont des Cats that I recently reviewed.
Without question, this was the best beer dinner I have attended to date. The fact that the extremely rare Westvleteren 12 was available, made it noteworthy alone. And for the quality that diners received, the $100 cost represented exceptional value. However, what truly elevated the experience was the creativity employed in offering excellent pairings that highlighted the synergy one can achieve with food and beer.
Biercraft’s next Battle of the Belgians will feature tripel ales.
~ RG
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