The beloved Vancouver East-side epicenter of consumption continues to crescendo. Recent years have seen a renaissance in eating and drinking explode, with local veterans of hospitality ambitiously sowing seeds in every available space. The particular allure of Gastown is two-fold: There is no corner of the city more rife with visible history and palpable character; pair that with the support of a community rich with hedonistic entrepreneurs and the draw to this nabe is irresistible to restaurateurs and diners alike.
Gastown’s crude carotid of Blood Alley has gone from derelict to desirable in just a few years. Tales behind this alley’s ominous name are as varied as they are tall; the most popular story suggests that local butcher shops would toss blood into the alley at the end of the day. Fabricated or not, gritty fables count for character – inspired eating and drinking at Sean Heather’s alley institutions of Salt Tasting Room and Judas Goat are testament to that. Blood Alley’s eastern entrance is now home to the newest member of Gastown’s growing gourmet family: l’Abattoir.
French translation makes “slaughterhouse” sound so elegant – a playful nod to those endearing alley anecdotes. The bones of l’Abattoir were the original home of The Irish Heather; it’s old soul still whispers from every corner. Original 19th century architecture persists, now dressed in a slick and handsome wardrobe of clean lines and simple elegance. The lower floor is cleverly tiled with grey and white, in an optically enchanting open-weave rattan pattern. Stairs lead up to a stylish dining room, while a narrow hallway leads past the shining kitchen and back to the beautifully brick-walled and glass-topped atrium. Co-owner Paul Grunberg is genial and exacting in his running of the floor while fellow owner and Chef Lee Cooper quietly crafts fine French-influenced West Coast dishes. Both men are long serving soldiers in local hospitality – jumping at the chance to build a dining experience of their own.
They are having fun with their food, crafting dishes that are bold in design and lively in taste and colour. My first sampling of l’Abattoir cooking featured the gorgeous textural seduction of a perfectly soft-poached egg, atop vibrant salsa and flavoursome Swiss chard – an inventive pairing of bold and simple ingredients, prepared well and neatly presented. Next came fresh pasta with elegant curls of zucchini ribbons, house-made ricotta and earthy white bean puree finished with salty bread-crumbs – a demonstration of textural complexity and balance between assertive flavours.
The food impresses, but make no mistake; I’m here for the drinks. The sleek l’Abattoir Bar dwells below the bright and welcoming entrance. Wine guy Jake Skakun darts back and forth between Bar and table; providing personal service of his smartly chosen, food-pairing inspired selection of bottles. The Back Bar is lined with playfully angled shelves that boast a fascinating array of obscure spirits, apothecary vials and curious crystal – the eclectic collection is the proud handiwork of Shaun Layton, Head Barman of this gin mill. Shaun is amongst the top Cocktail Bartenders in Vancouver and he couldn’t look more at home than behind the sleek wood at l’Abattoir. Classic spirit-forward recipes and character define his personal style, but there is no mistaking this Barkeep has great creative imagination. Cocktailian counterpart David Grieg is equally talented – accented with a measure of English swagger. The boys behind the Bar are a flurry of quick precision as an ever-changing assortment of vintage glassware gets repeatedly filled with all sorts of love.
Shaun hits me with “A Spot of Tea”, made from London Gin, Pimm’s No.1, Earl Grey syrup, orange marmalade & lemon juice – a sophisticated sip full of understated complexity, served in the sexiest of teacups. Next up is his “Banana Daiquiri”, designed to surprise and fascinate your senses with Jamaican Rum, Banane de Bresil liqueur, fresh lime juice and the captivating nuance of smoky single malt Islay whisky. This is not the Banana Daiquiri you had in Mexico. Now I’m ready for the “Slaughterhouse”; featuring Cognac, orange oils, aromatic bitters and a misting of Green Chartreuse – a potent house cocktail homage to the venerable Sazerac. After all this flavour exploration, I’m ready for a palate cleanser. A neatly crafted Martini of Gin, dry vermouth, orange bitters and olives is the clean crisp way to go.
The Cocktail menu covers a great range of styles and flavours, but a good Bar team thrives on creating personalized experiences – these Bartenders are no exception. L’Abattoir cocktails are made with such passionate attention, you’d swear the Bartenders were making drinks for themselves. Much more importantly, they are making them for you. A new force in the Gastown Cocktail landscape has been born. Lucky us.
The Bar is Open,
l’Abattoir
217 Carrall Street (Gastown) | Vancouver
Tel: 604.568-1701
www.labattoir.ca
{ 2 comments… read them below or add one }
Nice one bud…..I still am yet to go try. I didnt know you were a writer…err or writing.
Your gin martini, made for us with vodka, angelica liqueur, maraschino cherry was “to die for”!
Would you please share your recipe so we can make it at home?
Thank you.