National Barchef Competition

One of the coolest experiences in a bartender’s career is the ability to reach beyond the bar. You may take pride in being lightning fast during a Friday night well service, or you might thrive at pumping out classic drinks executed perfectly by the dozen at a cocktail party, but nothing compares to the incredible honour of receiving an exclusive invitation to participate in a national bartending competition.

Most bartenders get very excited at the possibility of an all-expenses paid trip with an opportunity to prove their mettle in friendly competition and be recognized for doing something that helps promote the growth of cocktail culture in Canada. On this day, I had the utmost honour of joining Bar Manager David Wolowidnyk of West Restaurant in Toronto for the 1st National Barchef Competition.

Barchef, a play on words in a way, is both a charismatic Toronto molecular mixology bar, and as well a bartending moniker for someone who successfully incorporates food science into their bar service.

 Amongst us two Vancouverites delighted to participate, we were joined by 3 of Ontario’s top bartenders, Rob Montgomery of the Miller Tavern (Toronto); Nishan Nepulongoda of Blowfish Restaurant (Toronto); Wes Galloway of Black Beans Steakhouse & Lounge (Port Hope); and Fabien Maillard of Montreal’s Mixoart Bartending Inc.

The Rules
• 6 participants
• No limit on ingredients
• No limit on time
• No limit on presentation
• Featured ingredient: Ketel One Vodka

In the morning, all the competitors prepped and provided individual on-camera interviews with Ketel One. Afterward, we hit Chinatown, which still remains the best place to grab ingredients and equipment, in any city, hands down, and Toronto has one of the best. A giant restaurant supply store called Tap Phong carries everything from giant high quality stainless steel stock pots, to bitters bottles, vintage glassware and rice cookers for super cheap.

The night of the event, I was running late as I had to pick up my dress covered in “rock royalty” emblems with a significant area devoted to Van Halen (Eddie Van Halen is from Holland, as is Ketel One… tee hee) made by the talented ladies over at Peach Berserk.

Now, it was finally time to get the game face on. David was cool and collected as usual, having prepped everything ahead of time.  In the Barchef basement, science was stirring. At one end, I had set up shop – pouring all of my tinctures into speed-pours and prepping my presentation piece – a tower of silver spoons with raw product intended to deconstruct the flavour composition of the 3 tinctures I chose to feature by themselves for the judges to taste. Next to me was Nishan – his chemistry kit open and unpacked – was making pearls, spheres, etc…he was “molecular-izing” himself right good.

Guests started to arrive, so I pulled my brother downstairs to help me by sitting in the corner and telling me how awesome he thinks my dress is. I found my mum Linda, my best friend Martin, and Jonathan all waiting for us to get started. There were lots of familiar faces for me from my Toronto days… bartenders I used to work with, old customers of mine – small world this bartending thing. There were definitely some cool people in attendance: Joe Fee (Fee Brother’s Bitters), Stephen Beaumont (That’s the Spirit & World of Beer), and James Chatto (a prolific Canadian food and beverage writer, Toronto Life Magazine).

Murphy’s Law  suggests that “ladies first”  would happen and after a lengthy and flattering introduction, I was indeed the first to be mic’ed up and put on stage. Here was the order, and it’s important to note – I’ll explain why when we get down to David and Nishan’s performances: Lauren (1), David (2), Wes (3), Nishan (4), Fabien (5), Rob (6). As I prepped for my performance, my boyfriend Jonathan and I pulled all the spoon stands and tincture trays from the basement and place one set in front of each of the three judges: Frankie Solarik (Barchef), Kevin Brauch (Thirsty Traveler), Catherine Santos (Diageo/Ketel One).

^ Lauren pouring the liquid nitrogen. Image by: Gavin MacMillan

My presentation went very rather smoothly, except when I learned last minute that there was no vodka on the stage, and my strainer was leaking like a sieve.  The problems were quickly averted and I poured the drink out, and let it rest for a few minutes. Meanwhile, I have a 10L jug of liquid nitrogen at my feet. Pouring carefully, the liquid and  gas spill out of the doer. With its temperature sitting around (-700F), the liquid nitro acts as a “frozen deep fryer”. To my left, a big bowl of recently “set” lemon curd with sake, cherry blossoms and Ketel One await their chilly bath. Using hot spoons, I quickly form quenelles, and plop into the liquid nitro. Using a slotted spoon (while still telling bad tasteless jokes to the audience) I move the curd around, same as you would deep frying churros in hot oil. Just as they’re done (literally 20 seconds) I submerge the last spoon for each spoon tower, and the curd quenelle sits atop.

Image by: Gavin MacMillan

This palate cleanser was inspired by the “dragon’s breath” pre-dinner fix at Heston Blumenthal’s Fat Duck Restaurant in London. Called “dragon’s breath” for the icy “smoke” that leaves the nose in front of you once you exhale while biting through the ball of curd. Each judge received one as a palate cleanser, the idea being that citrus and vodka cleanse the palate of tinctures, beer, cigarettes, etc.. as well as make you thirst and salivate. Now, flamed lemon peel and the cocktail s served. My cocktail, was called the “Nolet Pratt”, inspired by the Nolet family of Ketel One and 3 homemade vermouths..

Here’s the recipe:

Nolet Pratt
1.50 oz Ketel One Vodka
0.75 oz Smaak van Noyaux “dry vermouth” (Taste of Noyaux)
0.75 oz Vermouth von Kersen “sweet vermouth” (Cherry Vermouth)
0.50 oz Orgeat
0.25 oz Quince Vinegar
Stir over ice, strain into chilled coupe. Top with flamed lemon peel.
Cherry Blossom “Dragon’s Breath” Palate Cleanser
4 egg yolks
4 whole eggs
1.50 cup white sugar
0.75 cup fresh lemon juice
0.75 cup cherry blossom “sake” dry vermouth

Over an inch and a half of “full tilt” boiling water, whisk all ingredients together at top human speed in a metal bowl – keep whisking until firm ribbons form. Transfer to an ice-bath immediately, and gently whisk to cool down. Let set covered in fridge until ready to use.

Second to compete was David Wolowidnyk with his super cool cocktail, a traditional punch with a very unusual ingredient – sichuan buttons. Now, earlier I mentioned the importance of order with competitors, here’s why: sichuan buttons destroy your palate in a pleasant way for a while… they numb and create an interesting sensation in the mouth that is tough to describe.  David, explains to the audience and judges the five components of a traditional punch – tea, citrus, sugar, spirit, spices. There would also be an addition of homemade ginger beer to top of the cocktail.

^ David Wolowidnyk. Image by: Gavin MacMillan

For those of you who are familiar with David’s performance style, he’s informative, funny, confident and super engaging to watch. A true cocktail showman.

Here’s David’s recipe:

Sichuan Punch
2.00 oz sichuan button infused Ketel One Vodka (20 buttons)
0.75 oz lemon juice
0.75 oz Paris – Singapore Tea Syrup (TWG produces this tea exclusively for its executive business class on Singapore Airlines – green tea & cherry blossom tea)
1.00 dash of Scrappy’s Cardamom Bitters (Seattle based)

Shake and strain over cubes, and top with gingerbeer and a wee sichuan button.

Wes Galloway. Image by: Gavin MacMillan

Wes Galloway’s cocktail was alcohol forward with the essence of lillet, and a smokey glass spritz. It was simple, but his cocktail-geek presentation warmed my heart .

Image by: Gavin MacMillan

Nishan was fourth to perform, and he had the most complex of all the presentations. As he built his cocktails, his two assistants from Blowfish carefully put together the molecular components of  his cocktails on the judge’s plates.

Nishan Nepulongoda. Image by: Vito Amati

It was while Nishan was doing a Ketel One pour-out of the final ounce  from the first bottle of vodka, the one that was brought to me during my presentation, he  recoiled in horror  “THIS ISN’T VODKA. IT’S WATER!” Each of us (except David as he brought his own bottle from Vancouver) looked on in utter dismay as we realized the instant misinterpretation of our cocktails.  Wes, and I just stared at each other without expression. The sad part, is that we never had a chance to remake them – we should have.  Another 45 minutes goes by, as Nishan remakes his cocktails while animated comments  begin to emerge  from the judges table. Nishan’s cocktail was a vibrant green colour, with a salt rim, cucumber, yuzu juice and homemade yuzu bitters.

Nishan's plated cocktail. Image by: Gavin MacMillan

As Fabien heads to the stage, we couldn’t help but try and decipher this water bottle vodka mishap. How’d this happen? A couple of scenarios: it was the dummy bottle from the photoshoot and interviews earlier; it was Fabien’s practice bottle for his “flare” component. Either way, that sucked.

Fabien Maillard. Image by: Gavin MacMillan

Fabien launched  the Ketel One bottle from side to side, behind him, in front, got some vodka on the screen – it was pretty awesome… the crowd was dying for the cheeky entertainment. His cocktail was a savoury approach to Ketel One, with tomato water, Pernod, and fresh herbs.

Lastly, Rob hits the podium.  He made me a brown butter bourbon old-fashioned which was insanely delicious;  his cocktail, boldly called the Voltron was spirit forward with some Green Chartreuse lovin’; additions  of citrus and bitters to balance.

Rob Montgomery. Image by: Gavin MacMillan

After a lengthy speech by Kevin Brauch, it was announced that David Wolowidnyk  took first price, Lauren in second, Nishan and Fabien tied for third. Vancouver takes top positions, and David’s heading to Amsterdam!. Congratulations to everyone, but most importantly,  a big shout out to Vancouver andour community of skilled bartenders who are confidently steering  contemporary cocktail culture in Canada. Bravo!

~ Lauren Mote