Calabash Bistro

The Calabash is a remarkable tropical evergreen vine whose fruit is revered for its many uses. It bears giant gourds which are picked young for food. If left to mature and harden the gourds become wooden, and are then carved into bowls, bottles, pipes, sacred rattles or musical instruments – an apt title for this joyous creation at 428 Carrall Street in Gastown. “The Calabash is a vessel that supports food, drink, art, and music.”

A trio of proud partners have sunk themselves into the soul of their achievement. Sam Willcocks brings his hospitable manner and extensive restaurant management experience to steering the good ship Calabash. Chef Cullin David humbly makes the food sing while Roger Collins charms and grooves up the room. The exterior is unadorned, though unassuming as the vibrant decor and demeanor within. This block of Gastown is usually navigated with haste, but now a little sidewalk table set with fresh flowers politely asks for your pause and consideration. An intoxicating waft from the open door is rich with spice and hard to resist. A lovely little bar, packed high with rum bottles stands ready to greet you. Beyond the bar is a little window into the kitchen, where Tam-topped chefs create and laugh with equal enthusiasm. You are now at ease.

Calabash Bistro is Caribbean, borrowing culinary influence from all corners of this special part of the world. I have a personal enthusiasm for this new addition to Gastown, as I know the sincerity of its creators, not to mention my half-Jamaican blood has been boiling for an authentic taste of the islands. Chef Cullin is of Guyanese and Irish decent and brings his passion for food to full (and very personal) creative expression. He has devoted much of his life to feeding our city’s hunger, having spent twelve years cooking at Provence Marinaside, followed by a recent tenure at The Reef on Main. The food is fresh and vibrant with aroma and flavour, made by hand at every opportunity. Traditional favourites like silky Calliloo soup and warmed fresh Patties get you started, with essential mains of rich Curry Goat or proper Ackee and Saltfish to fill your grinning belly. If you need a little more spice, Cullin’s incredible house sauce is ripe with Mango and Bell Pepper, spicy with Habanero and full of special ingredients he’ll never reveal. A mouthful of the rich, sweet Guava and Brie Dumplings is an irresistible finish to your meal.

Roger is the kind-faced front man. His gentle nature reflects all that is modest and profound about Caribbean music and style – born and raised in Toronto, with yearly visits to his family roots in Saint Kitts. A DJ by passion, Roger created Foundation Radio as a source of expression for great musicians. Expect to hear live music by local artists resonating from the underground of Calabash on any given day or night, embracing sensual genres including Reggae, Soul, Funk, Jazz, and R&B.

Descending the stairs, you feel as though you’ve discovered a secret cave as the layout quietly reveals itself. The air is rich with positive energy as you enter the beating heart of Calabash music. Guests and staff turn to greet you with smiles, high on the vibe of the place. A beautifully decrepit elevator lurks at the back of the room. The rusty cage and its eerie mechanics are fascinating remnants from the bowels of the Pennsylvania Hotel, built on this location in 1906. A shiny vintage microphone dangles from the inside of the elevator in hopes of serenade. The lift is flanked by DJ tables which set the musical tone, but don’t be surprised to see all sorts of singers, musicians, spoken word performers, poets & dancers at this venue.

An even larger arsenal of bottles dwells behind the full size Fir-countered downstairs Bar. Jason Browne resides as Head Barman – a recent English import. Many of us have been lucky to have his creations at Gastown’s Revel Room this past year. His cocktails sing with lively personality, inspired by Caribbean favorites and Tiki essentials like the Lime Daiquiri, Mai Tai and Hurricane. Rum is the spirit of the Caribbean, so please ask your Bartender to take you on a tour of the extensive selection. The Beer selection is built from global labels including island favourites Red Stripe and Carib. Jason’s style behind the Bar is naturally easy going and fits his cocktail fashioning in perfectly with the food and energy of the room.

Love is the resounding sentiment at Calabash: love of food & drink, of family & friends and of music & art. They have succeeded in creating a place in which their character and uncontrived affections for the spirit of the islands can thrive and be shared. It is the manifestation of many years under the happy influence of Caribbean food, drink and culture – in the inimitable words of Bob Marley: “Love the life you live, live the life you love.”

The Bar is open.

~ Jay Jones

Calabash Bistro
428 Carrall Street | Vancouver
Tel: 604.568.5882
www.calabashbistro.com