Transitions – Part I- or “There is no place like home” (for now)

In the last six months I have been on many planes, trains, automobiles, buses, and even boats and bicycles.  Just a glance tells anyone that I like to move. The past 12 months, however, have been particularly busy (not to mention the last six weeks). BUT, I have been in the same place for 20 days and so this process just naturally comes with being in a new place: a time to reflect and the feeling of being in limbo, of “being in transition” and getting acquainted with the new surroundings.

In this first installment, I will talk about just that: the transition period between my last home in Spain (and a few words about what life was like there) and the early days in Malmö.  In future installments, I’ll talk about where I work, new food and Swedish classes, among other things.

^ My village, Oiartzun, in the province of Gipuzkoa in Spain’s Basque Country

SPAIN
I was blessed to have been one of the few women to lead a wine program of a two-Michelin-starred restaurant at the great Mugaritz (www.mugaritz.com), located in Spanish Basque country. I’m not one to let something small like language get in the way. It sure spices things up! Being the newbie is never a pleasant experience. I may be at this “restaurant thing” for over 20 years, but being the new kid is always the same: it sucks. I obviously overcame those first rough months of re-learning names, procedures, words.^ The beautiful oak tree at Mugaritz

I moved from Chicago (a few million people) to Oiartzun (about 6000 people, and probably as many sheep). There was something pretty amazing about the tranquility of where I lived. In the end, I grew to really fall in love with its beauty. Going for a walk in “mi pueblo” was one of my favourite pastimes. So that there is no misunderstanding, I need to tell you that outside of work and pintxos, there is not much on offer for someone coming from the outside, the “extranjero.” Someone from the outside will ALWAYS be someone from the outside.

As for work – it was a challenge. Language and local dining customs aside, there was the wine thing. I knew from my time in Australia that working in a country that was fiercely proud of its own wine production would be detrimental to my learning. In many ways, I feel that I took a few steps back having missed the opportunity to taste wines from around the world while I was living in Spain. Of course, the opportunity was there, but in a very small degree. I did, however, taste a lot of Rioja. I’ll just leave it at that.

On all levels, it was probably the most difficult move for me. Right up until the end, I felt like I was in transition (“the act of passing from one state or place to the next” ) – a perpetual state of uncertainty, change and movement. It was also a tremendous learning experience. I met my employer at a time when I spoke no Spanish and he spoke no English. I walked away over three years later with a decent command of the language, the wines and a deep appreciation and devotion forpintxos (more on those in a future article).

^ My very last day of work at Mugaritz came after a snowfall and none of the cars could make it up the hill (roughly 1km).  I was there for almost three years, intending to do that walk, and it was a beautiful, crisp day.  Breathtaking.  Just in the distance, on the right, is Mugaritz.

IN BETWEEN
My first article talked about this – five countries in about a month, mostly working, some play. I felt in limbo, but it was the best kind of limbo that I have ever known. I walked away with no knee pain, a dark tan and notes on hundreds of wines. Not to mention a new “favourite places” in Paris!  Oh, and by the way, one really doesn’t forget how to ride a bicycle.

SWEDEN
Which brings me to Malmö, Sweden. I am in my third week of work at Trio (www.triorestaurant.se ) – more on that in future scribblings.  What I really want to shout to the world is that, for the first time in a long time, I feel at “home” in a place. The week leading up to my arrival here was made of six cities in seven days. I arrived at my apartment just before midnight and in spite of being exhausted, I unpacked my two suitcases, made my bed and then slept so, so well.

In the following days, I wandered around becoming familiar with the buses (I LOVE public transport!), buying groceries and just breathing in the crisp winter air. The other morning, someone asked me if it was winter that made Sweden feel like home to me. And I’ll admit it: the crunch of the snow underfoot, gazing out at the snow-topped roofs and the fresh air are all familiar sensations to me. I also get to speak English here (more on Swedish lessons in a future article – I need to start them first!), so that makes this move a little easier than the last.

^ Enjoying a coffee on the sunny terrace – on my first morning in Malmö, Sweden

This week, we were at Omnivore – a food festival for the new generation of chefs. Lots of fun, lots of bloggers (I met Pim of Chez Pim!!), lots of experiences. Best of all was the feeling last night as we trudged off the train from Copenhagen airport:  I knew that within a short while I would be in my bed, and that I was home.

Though it is early days, there remains no doubt that there will be a place post-Malmö (that’s just how I roll), but the when and where are insignificant. “Content” is the word that best descrbes how I feel. And (and this is big news), it is the first time I have fully unpacked my things since July of 2006, when I packed everything up in Chicago. Not a single item is left in a box or stashed in luggage.

(writer’s note:  I’ve been working on this article for days and it is fitting that I had the Canada vs. Russia hockey game on in the background, at 3am, with snow lightly falling…it just feels right).

Next article:  One Month in Japan or “Gyoza, Nihonshu & Strawberries in February,” a look back one year to a life-changing trip to Japan.

~ Linda Violago