On the Beer Trail: Saltspring Island Ales Pt 1

It started out innocently enough with a single bottle of beer; a nice drinking session with an alluring and tall vessel of Saltspring Island Ale’s dark porter. Not long after that, it was the last drops of their award-winning golden and pale ales that I had also brought home as well, that further prodded me out the door in search of more.

By then, I was fully swept up in the beginnings of a beer adventure that would have me driving, sailing and eventually flying my way right to the source, wanting to learn more about this self-described ‘cottage brewery’ located in the heart of the Gulf Islands.

When fellow beer nerd and UD Kitchen Porn columnist, Jacob Galbraith, was suddenly unable to attend the assigned Saltspring Island Ales Brewmaster’s dinner at Lure Seafood Restaurant and Bar in Victoria due to a work conflict (see Missing Out) last month, I decided to not let the invitation to the sold-out event go to waste and quickly made arrangements for a trip to the Island.

Whenever I visit Victoria, I like to stay at the Villa Marco Polo Inn located in the Rockland quarter of the city; it is 5 minutes from downtown and has one of the best farm fresh gourmet breakfasts in town, not to mention some of most beautiful furnishings outside of Xanadu.Upon arrival at Lure, all fifty guests were warmly greeted by the owners of Saltspring Island Ales, Becky Julseth and Neil Cooke-Dallin, who purchased the business last year from a family friend, along with brewmaster Murray Hunter, who has been crafting beer professionally for over 14 years.

We started the evening’s festivities with a glass of their seasonal release, the fruity and high-gravity (7% abv) Fireside Winter Ale. This ruby-coloured sipping beer had a light and sweet malty flavour with notes of cooked fruit and a hint of vanilla. It possessed very little bitterness and finished smoothly with a touch of acidity, which gave it a suprising level of drinkability considering it’s considerable alcohol content.

With nicely primed palates, we sat and readied ourselves for the first of Chef Mike Weaver’s beer and food pairings.

^ Seared Qualicum Scallops, roasted garlic & sooke mead aioli, raisin lychee relish and baby frizee salad.
~ with Heatherdale Ale.

Saltspring’s Heather Ale was originally created for the Butchart Gardens, who grew the aromatic Heather flowers which give this beer its distinct and delicate nose. Heather, a flowering perennial shrub, was traditionally used in the brewing of gruit which was the herbal mixture commonly used to flavour and enhance beer during the Middle Ages before the regular use of hops. This light ale was a perfect match for the fresh seafood.

^ Fanny Bay Oyster Benedict, smoked bacon, toasted brioche, citrus hollandaise gratin.
~ Golden Ale

This was my favourite pairing of the evening. The combination of smoky and salty bacon, delicate oyster and creamy hollandaise were perfectly balanced with the hop bitterness and refreshing carbonation of this beer.

^ Bangers & Mash, galloping goose “autumn herb” sausage, stilton & apple celery root mash.
~ Pale Ale

Another great, simple dish. It is hard to argue with fresh, locally produced sausage and creamy mash with gravy that you could eat like pudding with a spoon. Oh, and the pale ale to wash it all down was pretty awesome as well.

^ Smoked Salmon Mac n Cheese, saltspring island goat brie, caramelized onions, ale braised fig compote.
~ Whaletail Ale

I have never been able to reconcile cheese and fish in a dish. They are like the Odd Couple on my palate and they need seperate rooms, otherwise they just bicker at each other in my mouth. Nonetheless, it did work well with the Whaletail Ale; a full flavoured, complex and balanced blend of malt and hops that had me calling the waiter over for refills. I hate to say it, but I would push grandma (forgive me) out the way to get to this beer. I turned to Murray the brewmaster, who was sitting beside me and said, “this is my favourite.” And he said, “Mine too.”

The Whaletail Ale was first created exclusively for Moby’s Pub on Salt Spring Island and only available there. Now, as the legend of this brew has spread, it has been spotted here in Vancouver occasionally on tap at St. Augustine’s on Commercial Drive and thankfully there are plans to release it in large bottles. Yes, please.

^ Cocoa Smoked Lamb Shoulder Sheppard’s Pie, tiger blue yukon potato, carrot and pea puree, coffee and date jus.
~ Porter

The next course was a serious beat down of hearty flavours. The chocolate smoked lamb joined forces with the dark roasted toffee malt of the porter and sent a parade of deep, rich flavours cascading down my gullet.

The porter style, the enigmatic twin brother of the stout, evolved out of the many brown ales popular in 18th century London. Porters are said to be named after the many street and river transporters that were enthusiastic drinkers of the beer and was also one of the first mass produced commercial beers in Europe.

^ Pineapple Blondie, coconut vanilla bean gelato, coconut pineapple confetti.
~ Fireside Winter Ale

The night ended on a sweet note, but by this time I could barely manage but a few bites before relenting and throwning in the napkin; I was completely stuffed and at $55 a ticket, this 6 course meal was an incredible experience and value for all who attended. Definitely one of the best beer pairing meals I have had yet. ~ PK

Stay Tuned for part 2: On the Beer Trail: A Visit to Saltspring Island Brewery

Special Thanks to BC Ferries for their travel assistance on this trip.