A Most Refined Bourbon

I can say with absolute certainty, that there is no liquid on earth which I have consumed more of than Maker’s Mark Straight Kentucky Bourbon – the sultry redhead having seduced me to the point of helpless and permanent infatuation. No other spirit has quite captured my affection or inspired my cocktail creativity as completely. A year ago, my lucky pilgrimage to the lovely little Loretto distillery confirmed my devotions. You’d think that by now I’d have had my fill; but here I find myself at The Refinery, seated at a Maker’s Mark seminar and tasting, hungry for more.

Ron Oliver presides over the group – it would be odd were it someone else. Though he carries the title of Distillery Diplomat for Maker’s Mark, Ron is and always will be a Bartender. For years he plied his craft in Vancouver as Bar Manager at Century and Blue Water Cafe amongst other, and a deep devotion to whiskey has long been his calling card. It was perfectly appropriate and natural when Ron took a full-time role as Ambassador for Maker’s Mark. A Bartender is only as good as their love for what’s in the glass, and when he speaks of his muse – that much passion is clear.

Lauren Mote is also a Bartender besotted by Bourbon. Part scientist, part chef; she deconstructs and reassembles flavours with reckless enthusiasm and precise science. The Refinery is her laboratory, and we are her curious guinea pigs. The reception concoction for tonight is her Silk Road Cocktail – its aroma subtle with curry spices (cumin, turmeric, fennel, coriander and ginger), but then erupting on the palate with vivid clove and citrus overtones. A heavy measure of Maker’s Mark lurks throughout the spice and is indeed the framework of the recipe. A float of Pender Island Pinot Noir atop the cocktail creates a striking visual, and soothing nuances of dry red fruit.

The night proceeds, and we enjoy Ron’s telling of the history of Maker’s Mark – a story that is woven thick with American history. Soon our Silk Roads are empty, and we dive into the first of the Whiskies. Before Bourbon becomes the magnificent amber masterpiece we know and love, it starts out life as White Dog – the foundation for maturation. It is clear as water, but somehow intimidating as it stares us down – captivatingly raw with intense vapor and the sweet, creamy flavours of distilled corn, wheat and barley. This young spirit must be aged a minimum of two years in charred virgin white American Oak to be called Bourbon – Ron has provided us with a sample of sophomore Maker’s Mark, and we start to see how integral a partner the oak is.

The group gets treated with some of the finest nibbles The Refinery has to offer – just in time for the star of the show. Nutty Comte cheese and earthy Bresaola are bold matches to the Whisky we’ve been steeped in so far, while Candied nuts are a particularly perfect partner to the personality of the finished spirit we are about to taste. Unlike most age-dated Bourbons, Maker’s Mark is bottled at maturity; when the distillers feel they have achieved their hallmark profile. Their Whisky never spends less than five years and nine months in oak, and often stays for seven years or more. Tasting alone determines when it’s ready for final blending and ultimately good enough to wear the famous wax-sealed bottle. Fully-matured Maker’s Mark is unmistakably well-balanced; forged by fire, then made complex with virile oak. It offers the sweet seduction of vanilla, butterscotch, spice and coffee in both aroma and flavour. For virgin palates, the bold and alluring sensation raises eybrows. For those of us familiar with this special experience, it’s like shaking hands and smiling with an old friend.

We peruse a sample of nine year matured Maker’s Mark, to help demonstrate what they don’t want it to taste like. Instead of the round, sweet and sophisticated front-palate tones – we now taste deeply pronounced oak character, increased bitter flavours and a more spicy burn. There’s nothing wrong with nine year old Bourbon – its just not what Maker’s Mark is about. Being true to their designs is what keeps this bottle unique in the world of Whisky.

Vancouver is a young and exciting city for Bartenders and drinkers alike. We are leaving an era defined by fear of spirit flavour, and boldly moving into its embrace. Whisky cocktails are once again loved, and proudly showing their many faces in some of the most exciting Bars in the town. What once was old is new again. Cheers to Maker’s Mark and The Refinery for an indulgent evening, and helping lead the charge.

~ Jay Jones