Chef Gagnon Makes his Mark at The Teahouse

I have a confession to make: the last time I stepped foot in The Teahouse in Stanley Park was for their Easter Sunday brunch in 1987. Clad in the matching doily dresses and patent leather shoes my mother made my sister and I famous for as children, we sat quietly and ever-so patiently in the sunny conservatory eating crab eggs benedict, patiently biding our time until we’d be excused from the table to go and wreak havoc on the unsuspecting Stanley Park gardens with our ninja-like Easter egg hunting skills.

^ Celery Root Soup, escargot, curry cream.

Twenty-three years, a few chefs, and a couple of name changes later, I enter the expanse of this Vancouver landmark and all of the wonderful memories come flooding back. It feels as though nothing has changed, and in the most absolutely comforting way. At a time where everything old is new again, how fitting that the re-re-branding of the Teahouse involves not only the name (it was called Sequoia Grill for a few of its 30 plus year history), but also some newly ventured culinary paths being explored by Chef François Gagnon.

Between our ordered courses, Chef Gagnon managed to sneak us mini bites of some of his favourites, so that practically no menu item was left untasted. We began with a soupçon of an escargot-garnished celery root soup, followed by a peppy candied walnut, beet and goat cheese arugula salad.
The classic parsley and breadcrumb-topped mac n’ cheese was a piping hot wintertime side dish hit, as were the plump wild prawns with salsa verde. It was then on to a moist roasted sablefish with parsnip purée and the featured bouillabaisse was an aromatic assortment of fresh clams, mussels, ling cod, salmon and scallops, all cooked with precision in a perfectly seasoned saffron-laced broth.

In an ever-changing Vancouver dining climate, what struck me as unique about The Teahouse is that the servers are very much on your side. After all, many of them have cultivated a following among regulars for years (and in some cases, decades) even down to particular table and section requests. I sensed that ours was eager to show off many of the new and improved menu items, and rightfully so. Chef Gagnon has managed to keep the regulars happy and at the same time has introduced a fresher and more modern approach.
^ Poached pear with mascarpone chantilly.

So if you’re looking for a tried and true Pacific Northwest inspired evening of cozy elegance, look no further than The Teahouse, and don’t forget to take in the stunning seascape and unmatched view of English Bay while you’re there. It wasn’t voted best sunset in Vancouver for nothing, after all.

~ Katherine van der Gracht