The 6am wake-up call intrudes just before actual sleep has a chance to set in. This will be our reality for the next five days. Not even time for coffee, before we make our pathetic lumber back into the vans. Soon, the landscape is zipping by our fuzzy eyes – we are en route to ISC (Independent Stave Company), which will prove to be a visual and audible assault. ISC is the leading barrel-maker for several major Bourbon distilleries; including Maker’s Mark.
The next few hours are spent dodging fire and machinery, as we tour the assembly lines; seeing just how much detail goes into the cooperage craft. Though half-asleep and deaf, we emerge with a deeper understanding of the art of the barrel and its integral role in the life of a whisky. Maker’s Mark is by far the pickiest of ISC’s clients; the extra details in their customized barrels make all the difference in the aging process.
The time has come, and we are off to the Maker’s Mark distillery. Setting foot in the heartland of our beloved Whisky was a humbling proposition, not to mention crossing the threshold of our Church of Bourbon. Between anticipation, starvation and residual inebriation, the group is somewhat subdued – only adding to our innocent wonder as we arrive at the distillery. The distillery is a National Historic Landmark, having continually produced Bourbon on its original site since 1805.
The buildings are nestled in a magnificent clearing amongst the gentle hills of Loretto. It feels as though we are passing through a portal; perhaps a bit like Charlie, as the gates open to the chocolate factory. Here we go. Yum.
Standing behind Maker’s Mark is something Bartenders have always done because we believe so completely in the product quality and singular taste – we were about to discover that we stood for so much more. There is character oozing out of every part of the distillery. The building is a patchwork of hundreds of years of handcrafted wood and metal, steeped in the gorgeous reek of grains and yeast.
Once inside, a window reveals snow falling on the distillery, but only for a moment – an unexpected sight indeed, but it only adds to the tranquility of the setting and surreal feeling that continues to build. We wander up and down narrow staircases through five stories of distillation, receiving an intensive crash course in Bourbon history and how things are unique at Maker’s Mark. Empty stomachs are assaulted with 130 proof “White Dog”, straight from the pot still. Literally and figuratively, we are soaking it all in. From the bottling line to the warehouses to the gift shop, we meet every single person working there – every one of them has a smile, a handshake and a look in the eye for us. Nothing seems rushed, and all appears to happen exactly as intended.
The day finishes with a thorough tasting and seminar with Master Distiller, Kevin Smith. His passion is obvious as he underlines the importance of every single stage of production. He is devoted to the belief that Maker’s is not necessarily better than every other Bourbon (that choice is up to the individual), but that because of the details in the way it’s made; the taste is a great one, and unarguably unique. Essential to the quality in the bottle, is the integrity of the people behind it. Many companies embrace the idea of operating as a family. Maker’s Mark is a family, and we felt embraced as such through every step of our journey.
Dinner on day two is at Z Fusion in Louisville. Though knowing nothing about the place, we are a tad apprehensive about the name – considering we all lived through Vancouver’s “fusion phase” of restaurants in the nineties. The room looks the part of our fears, but that’s about where they end. Our hosts are lovely and proudly enthusiastic about what they do; the food is ambitious and the cocktails even more so. Southern charm is turned on full blast, and we are loving it.
Half cut on tobacco infused Maker’s Mark Manhattans and happily stuffed, we set out to see if there’s a sports bar that will take pity on a gaggle of Canucks fans desperate to see the Flames lose. Champions looks the part: a giant sports bar, plastered with neon beer signs, flat-panels and memorabilia. A quick run to the hotel to grab my jersey, and I transform into a screaming Canucklehead. Three hours later and high on victory, we hit the Fourth Street Live! - The happening strip in downtown Louisville. Sully’s is the place to party; though we are frightened to discover that the southern club scene has embraced Hip Hop line dancing. Dodging assimilation; we choose to guzzle our Maker’s straight, as it also appears that flair bartending is still alive and well. The downhill slope is slippery, and day two is soon mercifully in the books.
The next morning looks much like the previous one; sunglasses indiscreetly hiding bleeding, squinty eyes. Movements are slow, and the drive back to Maker’s Mark is a tad tardy. Today, we put our education from yesterday to work; getting our hands dirty in the process, taking turns with the workers in every step of production.
We hang out with the lovely ladies on the bottling line; learning how to make the perfect three-second wax seal dip, then trying not to ruin too many ourselves. Doug the Miller marches us through the upper floors of the distillery – proudly guiding us through the grain mixing and milling process like a happy bulldog; letting us pull levers and push buttons here and there. We were a tad apprehensive, struggling to hear his instructions over the combination of mechanical cacophony and Kentucky drawl. If we screwed anything up, we won’t know for at least six years or so.
The highlight of the day, and arguably the trip, is meeting Bobby Joe Corbett. Bobby Joe oversees the movements of every barrel that is lucky enough to carry Maker’s Mark – from receiving and inspection to warehouse rotation and distribution. He has been with the company for over twenty years and in addition to his huge role: trains horses, single-handedly builds churches and personally maintains the grounds and buildings at the distillery. He epitomizes the grand character of the South without saying a word. Charisma personified, he captures our admiration immediately. We compare Bobby Joe to Chuck Norris, and the Kentucky Cowboy lays a roundhouse kick to the Texas Ranger.
Back to the hotel for a quick change into collars, and we are off to Bill and Nancy Samuels’ home for dinner and a cocktail competition against our English counterparts. The only guy cooler and more respected than Bobby Joe is Bill Samuels Jr. – the patriarch of Maker’s Mark, and one of Kentucky’s most beloved sons. The family’s roots run deep; Nancy herself being a direct descendant of Daniel Boone. Bill’s personality is larger than life, as we nervously line up at his front door, eager to shake hands with a legend.
A quick peek around the house reveals trophies of the history of his company and his family’s integral role in Kentucky: the first Maker’s bottle ever dipped, a photo with Colonel Sanders (Bill was his first employee), and a display case containing General Robert E. Lee’s pistol from the Civil War – just to name a few. We enjoy cocktails on the backyard patio, watching the Ohio River wander by under a watchful sunset. Bill takes time to engage each of us, making us feel like old friends, so welcome in his home. Two eight-ounce Manhattans later and dinner is served. The youngest generation of the Samuels family at Maker’s Mark is Bill’s son Rob – the Director of Global Brand Development, and all-around nice guy. Having met us in Vancouver last year, he sits with the Canadians, causing us to gush shamelessly about our experiences in Kentucky and our love for Maker’s Mark. So much his father’s son, he humbly smiles and thanks us with self-effacing pride. The next generation is in good hands.
We finish our plates and head downstairs to the Bar and Games Room – the location for our anticipated showdown with the Brits. We scramble to line up our ingredients, hoping our presentation and concoction are worthy of our audience. Our creation is the “Maple Mark”: an Old Fashioned-based offering, tuned with some homegrown ingredients. Darryl brought homemade maple syrup from his girlfriend’s family farm in Ontario; wonderfully complex, it substitutes for the usual sugar, and provides the essence of the drink in unison with the healthy measure of Maker’s at its core. Fee Brothers’ Old Fashion Bitters brings spice and complexity to the fold. To finish, a float of BC red wine tunes the dryness and contributes a deep cherry component to the final palate; not to mention an unexpectedly sexy aesthetic. Tinhorn Creek graciously provided some Oldfield’s Collection Merlot for our trip, and we present Bill and Nancy with bottles as small tokens of our incredible gratitude – as well a healthy dose of maple syrup for their short stacks in the morning. We proudly describe our intentions to the crowd of sixty (yes, the Games Room is that big), and feel our integrity and imagination is appreciated. Team England steps up next, and our worthy adversaries demonstrate the expected London style in a fastidious display of detailed craftsmanship and colourful descriptions. The judges’ verdict extends kudos to both nations for their creativity – awarding Team Canada top marks for taste, and ending the evening with winners all around. Fitting – as every aspect of our trip has continued to showcase the unparalleled magnanimity of our hosts.
Giddy from our night at Bill’s place, we trek back to downtown Louisville for some celebratory beverages. We are lucky to find Social, a cool little cocktail joint that opened its doors not two weeks ago. Savvy bartenders craft precise classics with no pretention, and we feel embraced as brethren. The Head Bartender from Z Fusion shows up, and after a couple more rounds, he has us in taxis headed for Bourbons Bistro. This iconic Bar is home to over 130 different Bourbons, and we attempt to make a dent in the selection. The entire place is built in old dark wood, washed in candlelight and rich with an aged character. Kyle the Bartender endures our waves of slurred inquiries with calm.
Seems the Bar folk of Louisville are as happy to share knowledge as we are to glean it. A few sips and shots later, and we blissfully can’t tell up from down. However, we seem to have passed the scrutiny of our new friends; as the Bar crew from Social shows up to join our ranks and continue our crawl. Next stop is Germantown in the East End of the city. A disorienting and lengthy cab ride delivers us to Nachbar. This is the place tourists never hear about – open until dawn, it is where the Bar and Restaurant staff of Louisville go to play after work. Now we feel cool; soaking up the cluttered comfort, as the ingenuous staff craft perfect drinks. The place reminds me DV8 in Vancouver; but from ten years ago, when it was cool. The music is loud indie rock, and the cocktails rival the best we’ve had on our entire trip, and appropriately there are more Manhattans in hands then there are draft beers. I imagine most of us don’t remember exactly how we got back to the hotel; but in the morning, the giant pile of White Castle slider boxes at the foot of the bed lets me know I ate properly on the way home.
~ Jay Jones
Stay tuned! Part 3 – Horse racing and the Speakeasy Social.
Read Part 1 of Marked For Life: On the Bourbon Trail with Jay Jones
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Great piece. Glad you enjoyed the experience. You forgot to mention that Independent Stave Company is located in downtown Lebanon, Ky. and Maker’s Mark is just outside of Lebanon, actually between Loretto and Lebanon, although it has a Loretto address. For the record, the ISC factory you visited is actually called Kentucky Cooperage. ISC is the parent company. Come see us again! Learn more and get easy, detailed directions to Lebanon and Maker’s Mark Distillery at http://www.VisitLebanonKy.com. Lebanon is the geographic center of the state and the true Heart of Kentucky. Come feel the beat!