Three Days in Napa

My wife and I took advantage of the insane airfares between Bellingham and Oakland on Allegiant to spend some time in Napa over the weekend. I love Allegiant for their rickety aircraft, surly cabin crew and tweens piloting. The spectre of danger only enhances the appreciation for life you have on the other end, meaning food tastes better, music sounds more melodious, etc. They are the only airline where the pilot tells the fuelling guy to “put in a twenty”.  Pre-kids we travelled there once a year, since kids not once so we were looking forward to see what had changed in almost a decade. In a word, not much.

We arrived at our hotel in Callistoga after a quick trip in our rental car from the airport in a little more than an hour, glass of wine then out for dinner. Wandered around Callistoga and settled on Bar Vino a casual wine bar with an remarkably good value 19 dollar prixe fixe three course dinner menu. Walked in at 8:30, the place was dead, like every other spot in town. I realize it’s off season, but the entire valley was very quiet, I doubt you need reservations anywhere at the moment, even the French Laundry, which is unheard of. The meal was very nice, more so considering how inexpensive it was. Started with a frissee and lardon salad, nicely poached egg on top, then short ribs on cauliflower puree with an espresso sauce and finally  three different gelatos for dessert. Not cutting edge or imaginative, but nicely executed and a remarkable value, it could compete with any local rooms DOV offering. (Restaurant website.)

Got up the next morning and headed down valley to meet a friend driving up from San Francisco in the town of Napa. Decided to head to Hess Collection first, great art terrible wine. Worthwhile if you like modern art, they have a very nice gallery and it’s at the far south end of the valley, isolated in the hills.

Then off to Cliff Lede in the Stags Leap. What a revelation; I never thought I’d find a Canadian wine that was truly great.  Cliff Lede is a principal of the Canadian construction giant Ledcor and Edmonton boy. Cliff Lede made me rethink my prejudice against Canadian wine, it showed me there is good Canadian wine, it’s just made in the Napa valley. Who knew?

Cliff Lede in Napa

Then off to lunch. We decided to head to standby Mustards on Highway 29 as it was close, we pulled into the lot and had the proprietor tell us they had a fire in the kitchen earlier and were closed. Headed down to Yountville instead. Decided to see if we could get into the restaurant of the moment, Redd Napa Valley. We were in luck. We were promptly seated in a room three quarters full.

We had a beautiful sophisticated lunch, the room exuded modern calm, the cooking was assured (and quite rich.) The only downside is the place tends towards pricey. Service was excellent, when I told the waiter I couldn’t decide between the short ribs or the steak, he told me not to worry, got a slightly maniacal grin and brought me a half order of each, unrequested. That is good service.

Continued…

~KT