The Globe’s food critic Alexandra Gill ripped into Raincity Grill yesterday, pretty much stating flat out that chef Peter Robertson wasn’t up to the job. I had to read it again just to make sure I was getting it right.
I am truly sad to discover that the restaurant has gone downhill. And that Peter Robertson, the new chef de cuisine who was promoted from C Restaurant last winter, isn’t meeting the same high standards as his talented predecessors, such as Andrea Carlson (who left last winter to become executive chef at Bishop’s restaurant) and Sean Cousins.
Such total recall is impressive, assuming Alex can remember the dinners prepared for her by Andrea or Sean in the past (Sean left four years ago). But what amazes me more than what she wrote was the confidence with which it was written. To see such a high level of conviction in one’s own opinion in such a subjective territory as the true measure of a chef’s abilities is pretty rare these days, at least in print. It sort of reminded me of dinehere.ca but with a better turn of phrase.
{ 17 comments… read them below or add one }
She has consistently shown herself to be the most discerning food writer in Vancouver.
and you wonder why fuel kicked her out
It’s hard not to agree that Raincity’s standards have definitely declined. It used to be one of my top rated Vancouver restaurants, but since my last visit, I’m reluctant to go back.
It sounds like she is doing her job…its not her falt her had a BAD meal!! It would be nice for some of these food writer would visit the restaurant more them 1 time before slaming them!!
Hmm, wonder what brunch is like there? Guess I’ll find out on Sunday… bad timing…
I’ve been critical of her writing in the past, but this one seems pretty justified. I didn’t see any evidence in there that was the least bit equivocal from the terrible service to the lazy menu construction.
maybe she is really out to get at the man himself [harry kambolis, is it?] tearing into his little eatery empire one resto at a time!!…one more to go??
I think her blunt assessment of Peter’s talents are laughable, he is clearly a very talented chef.
However, let’s imagine a restaurant with these hypothetical problems:
- A revolving door kitchen with most staff members lasting only a few months, burnt out after working 80 hour weeks and realizing they are making $5/hour.
- This revolving door, usually fresh out of (or still in) culinary school, having to teach themselves recipes
- Members of the kitchen having to attend to a hypothetical takeout window (let’s say one serving fish & chips) in the middle of service
I dare say Mr. Escoffier himself would have trouble ensuring his brigade was putting out perfect food night after night with these issues in place!
How is he clearly a very talented chef???Looking at his menu after reading the review…doesn’t look like talented is the word???I think Robert Clark might need to stop worrying about the poor little fishes and get some real cooking back at these restaurants!!!!!!!
hope she doesn’t hit BRIX anytime soon. had the worst safeway salad last night, actually left before the mains came. that was my third and final misearble meal there.
heirloom tomatoe sald with poached egg was a chopped iceberg lettuce mountain with three slices of refrigerated conventional tomatoe and a hard boiled egg. no kidding.
Tom,
How is your unsolicited (and probably biased) opinion on a completely unrelated restaurant relevant to this conversation? If you are a food critic, we should have no problem finding your opinions on your website.
Could spiceman have a monetary interest in BRIX?
Back OT, folks, if you wouldn’t mind.
This is sad. We had a wonderful candlelit meal there on the evening of Earth Hour and many a good brunch all summer long.
Odd that she can make such a declaration after one meal.
To the brave fellow who keeps trying to post blatantly libelous comments on this post, having a fake name and a phony email address isn’t helping your cause. UD is a community, not a vehicle for anonymous abuse. Try DineHere.ca.
Alex is a gifted writer, and you have to admire her decision to write a negative review. Like they say in journalism school, you gotta take a side!
Raincity has a GREAT brunch, the staff bends over backwards, but the ambiance is a bit like God’s waiting room, crammed with elderly tourists. However, if they updated their decor and re-branded the menu, it could be top dog again! For now, they should stick to promoting their brunch and cross-pollinating with a Park activity… maybe the Ghost Train.