My Review Of Trattoria Italian Kitchen

My review of Trattoria Italian Kitchen is out in this week’s WE:

Located in the old Chianti Cafe space just a block down from new foodie favourites like Bistrot Bistro, Fuel and Gastropod (all of which opened just last year), it has arrived at the perfect time, at the height of the area’s restaurant revival. Across the street, there’s the still-new Noodle Box and a pair of soon-to-open neighbours: PHAT and Pinky’s Steakhouse, both of which have locations in the heart of Yaletown, where Yacoub made his fortune. So by no means is “Trattoria” a swing in the dark. Yacoub is arguably the savviest restaurateur in the city. Few know which way the restaurant winds blow in Vancouver more than he does, and right now it’s blowing right up West 4th.

As far as “making the scene” is concerned, it’s no contest. Trattoria Italian Kitchen wins, as pretty as a poodle in a land of labs. Entertaining is what Yacoub’s company, The Glowbal Group, does best. But there’s a problem: the ability to throw a good party is never enough. The fare at his restaurants has always been passable in taste and easy on the eyes, but it’s never been exceptional, with little in the way of seriousness expressed on the plate. Accordingly, I assumed I’d leave my first visit feeling not a little burned. 

You can read the full copy online here.