Over the next few days, restaurateur Sean Heather will be keeping us apprised of his travels in the UK and Ireland. WEDNESDAY 21ST FEBRUARY 1030AM VANCOUVER
MR. Q looking smart So my trip begins with Quentin Kayne, my Operations Manager trading in his regular hat for that of an airport chauffeur. I still crack up whenever he pretzels himself into my Smart Car. This time, however, it is particularly funny as the car is honking, humming, ponging, minging…it stinks. Why? On Valentines Day we ran a very successful prix fixe at Salt and one of the courses was Lobster Vanilla Bisque. Chef Dan at made it at Lucky Diner and as a result it had to be ferried over from Yaletown to Gastown. Unfortunately, it wasn’t secured properly. At least a couple of pints spilled out, soaking the trunk, sliding under the passenger seat and soaking the foot mat. As you can imagine, my car smells like death. Quentin’s obvious excitement is written all over is face. THURSDAY 22ND 215PM LONDON Arrived in London city centre at noon, met my Dad and headed to St. John Bread & Wine, the sister restaurant of the already established St. John’s Restaurant. Chef Fergus Henderson’s temple to British cuts of meats (offal) is much lauded (and rightly so).
We arrive at 2:15pm to a packed room. I settled down to cured beef tenderloin and celeriac salad while my Dad had a dandelion and pork scratching salad. Both were great, but were eclipsed by the steak and kidney potpie for two.
This beast was loaded with flavor and more importantly, it had a crust that melted in your mouth. The pastry top was supported by a marrowbone, which provided an extra treat when the meal was over. Jetlagged and fed, I headed over to Notting Hill Gate for a wander around my old stomping ground. After two hours of snooping I headed over to Tom Conran’s gastropub, “The Cow”.
Tom’s father is Terrance Conran, the founder of Habitat (England’s answer to Ikea) and creator some of England’s finest establishments; Quaglino’s, Mezza, Orrery, Bibendum & Bluebird, to name but a few. As one of the original Gastropubs, The Cow is believed to be the model upon which New York’s “The Spotted Pig” is based. The Cow has also heavily influenced the Irish Heather, so anytime that I can, I drop by for oysters and a pint. It is one of those places where an hour quickly becomes an evening. We call this the Irish Downhill.
Irish Rock Oysters and sweet, smooth Guinness. So I tore myself away from my pint and headed back to my Dads for a shower and a couple of hours sleep before heading to Canteen for a late supper.
Here is what they save about themselves: “Canteen is committed to providing honest food, nationally sourced, skillfully prepared and reasonably priced. We believe in good produce provence. Our meat is additive freesourced directly from producers practicing good animal husbandry and our fish delivered fresh from day-boats on the south coast. All dishes are cooked to order and the menu changes seasonally.”
Potted Duck, Piccalilli & Toast
Smoked Haddock, Spinach & Mash
Rib-Eye Steak, Mushrooms, & Horseradish Butter The food, service, design and price were all great. I loved this place. More London tomorrow…stay tuned.
Sean Heather Travels Part I
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