by Tara Lee
There was a time when the giving of a blender signalled a lack of romantic or platonic spark between giver and receiver. However, today, when food and cooking have become almost obsessively trendy, the mere thought of a new mixer can send some people into paroxysms of Christmas joy.
As the frenetic pace of December accelerates, kitchen and gourmet stores offer an oasis of calm for those who need a saucepan or chutney fix. Fontaine Wong, purchaser at Ming Wo, says that she has noticed a definite shift in the buying patterns of her customers. She notes that “a lot of people are more conscious of what they are eating and consuming. They like to dictate what goes in their bodies.” This increased preoccupation with food means that cooking has become the new “It” activity. Wong says, “It’s almost fashionable to be cooking now. Before it was a labour. Now, it’s a labour of love.”
For those buyers who want to go a courtin’ with kitchen items, Wong recommends Riedel stemless wine glasses (4 for $35.99), the ergonomically designed Peugeot peppermills ($19.99 for short, $29.99 for tall), and the razor-sharp Kuhn Rikon paring knife ($11.98), made of carbon steel with a non-stick coating. She also extols the infusing virtues of Brewt ($24.99), an acrylic funnel that uses the magic of gravity and valve wizardry to create a perfect cup of coffee or tea.
Meanwhile, at Basic Stock Cookware, savvy and brand name conscious consumers are flocking to pick up the latest hot kitchen commodities. Leah Perry, a partner of Basic Stock, says that Food Network and Home & Garden Television (HGTV) have really advanced the cookware industry. Consumers are more educated, albeit still seeking further expert advice, and much more interested in products that will aid their newfound penchant for home entertaining. She argues that this entertaining trend and new open kitchen designs have increased demand for high quality goods. “Presentation is very important, as is having the best cookware, appliances, and utensils to be able to cook openly in front of your guests. It’s very much an involved experience for everyone. It’s all on show,” she explains.
According to Perry, the biggest hit this season has been the Jamie Oliver Flavour Shaker ($29.99), a bowling pin shaped unit that martini shakes its way beyond the more traditional mortar and pestle (the Waiterforum jury is currently out on the efficacy of this product). The second top seller is the Garlic Pro ($19.99), a two piece handheld device that inside, has twenty stainless steel blades for finely chopping garlic, almonds, or shallots. Also popular are the dishwasher safe Epicurean wood cutting boards (high $20s and up) and the Italian made Saeco Cappuccino makers ($340 to $3,000) for those shoppers looking for more indulgent purchases.
Over at Barbara-Jo’s Books to Cooks, culinary bibliophiles are buying local books in droves. Barbara-Jo McIntosh says, “We’re wanting to support our own even more. I think people are finally becoming really proud of what we have to offer.” She likens this cookbook buying shift to “supporting the homer.” Local bestsellers are Vij’s: Elegant and Inspired Indian Cuisine (Douglas & McIntyre, $40), The Lesley Stowe Fine Food Cookbook (HarperCollins, $29.95), Susan Mendelson’s Mama Now Cooks Like This (Whitecap, $29.95), and Amrita Sondhi’s Modern Ayurvedic Cookbook (Arsenal Pulp, $24.95). Popular volumes from national authors include Anna Olson’s Another Cup of Sugar (Whitecap, $24.95) and Lucy’s Kitchen (Random House, $35) by Globe & Mail columnist Lucy Waverman.
A whimsical book under the radar is Pie (Cassell, $32.95) by Brit Angela Boggiao that has a “fetching” cover and “all these comforting recipes that [British] mothers or grandmothers would have made.” McIntosh says a desire for home comfort is creating an accompanying demand for cookbooks: “People are realizing that being at home and cooking is a great thing to do. You can’t go out every night. You should stay home and nourish yourself.” And if that nourishment involves turning the pages of a much loved cookbook or rolling out pastry, all the better.
Finally, sometimes actual food consumption is the only true sustenance. Eric Pateman of Edible BC feels that “instead of looking for items on a shelf, people are looking for experiences.” More specifically, his customers are looking for edible experiences that allow them to connect with the local producers around them. Pateman’s Christmas tour features pomegranate and fig balsamic vinegars ($14.95) from Maison Côté, cranberry port sauce ($10.50) to accompany Christmas turkey gobbling, and birch syrup (125 ml for $12.50), produced in northern BC. Chocolate lovers will especially swoon over Chocowine ($19.50) from BC Duby that’s a heady mix of chocolate ganache blended with four wine varietals.
Of course, when shoppers are buying for kith and kin, they also inevitable buy for their very favourite person: themselves. Pateman says that three-quarters of the purchases in his store are gifts, the other quarter are personal stocking stuffers. “It starts off with gifts for other people. Then, they end up buying for themselves,” he says. Now, that is the true spirit of Christmas!
