Recently, Paul Kamon had a chance to talk about the restaurant industry with Vancouver’s own celebrity Iron Chef, Rob Feenie. He is the founder and co-owner of two award-winning restaurants, Lumière and Feenie’s. Rob has also written three cookbooks (Rob Feenie Cooks at Lumière, Lumière Light, and Feenie’s) and hosts a TV show on the Food Network called New Classics with Chef Rob Feenie.
Urban Diner: How and when did you decide cooking was the thing you wanted to pursue?
Rob Feenie: My first cooking experiences were helping my mom in the kitchen. It was a hobby at first. When I was 15, I went to Sweden, which opened up my eyes a lot. It was there I had my first taste of espresso. I traveled through Europe (France, Italy, Belgium, Germany). When I came home, the Dubrulle Cooking School was just opening up here in Vancouver, so the idea of becoming a professional chef was a new idea at the time. I went back to Europe for a while and when I came back in 1985 (I was about 18-19 years old at the time just out of high school) I saw cooking school as a real opportunity. I’ve always loved cooking – it was something I could see myself doing, and I started at the right time.
UD: Any golden advice for a young, aspiring chef?
RF: If you don’t love it, don’t do it. Young chefs need to understand the level of commitment that is needed to succeed and be able to persevere through the tough times of long hours and not a lot of money. Also, that even if they have trained to be chefs, that their skills can transfer into many other opportunities within the industry beyond just cooking, like food writing for example.
UD: What is an important detail that every chef, veteran or newbie, should always remember, but often forget?
RF: Seasoning. Salt, pepper and simplicity. Don’t forget the basics. The fundamentals never change.
UD: From your perspective, what was the turning point that put Vancouver on the international culinary map?
RF: It has been a gradual progression for Vancouver restaurants, particularly for fine dining. In the 70’s, we had pioneers, like Umberto Menghi and Jean Claude Raymond, then guys like Michel Jacob (Le Crocodile) after that. Today, it’s myself and others like David Hawksworth. Beyond that, the Canadian producers and suppliers have come a long way in the last decade.
UD: Where do you see Vancouver going in regards to our dining culture?
RF: The media will have a major role in this. Trends will come and go, and trends tend to get a lot of press. It is the nature of the food writing business that is always looking for a new and exciting angle from which to write. But I think our true identity is tied to the terroir. It is the land and the products we produce and serve that will leave the lasting impression. An example of this would be Robert Clark doing it with sustainable seafood, and I think his menus reflect this idea.
UD: What aspect of the industry do you think Vancouver needs to improve or mature to advance to an even higher level?
RF: Education. We should be careful not to get ahead of ourselves. I think it is important that we continue educating our staff and the dining public. The industry will only gain from this.
UD: With regard to dining, what is Vancouver’s greatest strength?
RF: Diversity of cuisine is our greatest strength. There are so many incredible choices at all the different price points. And it is spreading further into the suburbs.
UD: Any commentary on fellow Canuck *Lynn Crawford’s appearance on Iron Chef America this October 23?*
RF: I think Lynn is a wonderful chef. I wish her luck. Win or lose, she will represent Canada well.
UD: What does the future hold for Rob Feenie?
RF: We are expanding the Feenies brand. More restaurants in Vancouver and in Toronto. Another cookbook. Perhaps a TV show in the works. I have an American Express ad appearing in North America. I am making sure to take the time to do it right.
UD: What 5 restaurants you would recommend to visiting friends to get a cross section of BC dining?
RF: Cioppino’s, Le Crocodile, Sooke Harbour House, Sun Sui Wah, Terrace at Mission Hill, and Lumière, of course. (smiles)
UD: Final question. It is your fantasy retirement dinner. Where is it, who’s cooking, who’s serving, and what are you eating?
RF: It is at my house in Kits, Alain Ducasse, Joel Robuchon, and Freddy Girardet are cooking, Sean Connery and Pierce Brosnan are serving, and I’d eat anything they make.
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